Melissa McCue-McGrath, CPDT-KA is a Boston dog trainer with 15 years experience in sports, manners & behavior. She wrote Considerations for the City Dog and contributes to NPR's Car Talk FIDO blog and Maine Dog Magazine. She's the co-Training Director of NEDTC, the oldest AKC obedience club in the US.
In today's Q/A, we have a terrier puppy who loves to escape, but also won't come back for food if she does get out. So, we break this down into two different topics and address them both!
1. How to keep a dog from escaping
2. How to find what is reinforcing to a non-food hound
The lesson is here:
Also, in this video, Melissa is still crisis parenting in a pandemic while working from home:
We talk about how to search for Flirt Pole without stumbling down an unintended sex dungeon rabbit hole:
and we talk about how hunters bathe who in doe urine for hunting season actually might be onto something with dog training...
Ew.
I know, but maybe it'll help you get your dog to come back to you if he or she escapes - not bathing in doe urine.
I'm not a monster.
I'm thinking just reasonable amount of doe urine ...maybe on a tug toy....if your dog is into it.
Let's find out how all these string together, shall we? Because, I don't think dog training should just be fun. I think it should be funny.
*****
If you have questions about living life with dogs, feel free to add them in the comments section here or feel free to contact me! Until next time!
It's hot out! There is a predicted high of 90 (f). Captain doesn't do well with heat, so instead of taking 3 walkies today, we are planning ahead.
We got up a little early, went in a longer route so he could get the same amount of outside time despite missing a midday walk for to heat, and we stumbled across this!
Now, you might see flats.
Not me. I see a nosework game, a mentally stimulative activity, exercise, focus and a way to tire out Captain!
I've started a YouTube channel in the hopes of helping my students find new ways to keep working with their dogs during the pandemic. I'll put some of those here and share in this way. I hope this (and some other videos!) will give you some inspiration during these trying times (and beyond!)
If you try this with your pet, let me know! I'd love to see you (and your dogs!) working hard!
This article first appeared in the 2017 Summer edition of Maine Dog Magazine.
Captain’s Log: Travelin’ Dog
Vacationland
garnered widespread attention in March when Maine Representative, Jim Handy,
proposed a bill mandating all dogs should be physically restrained in moving
vehicles. He later decided to pull the bill, but not before it brought up an
interesting national discussion. Another area of my job is blogging with
veterinarian extraordinaire, Dr. Sip Siperstein, for Car Talk (yes, THAT Car
Talk). Together, we tackle some of the more interesting aspects of pet travel.
Some of the pieces are fluffy and silly, but when something like this comes
across our desks, we take these on, too.
In
every aspect of my job as a professional dog trainer from working hands on with
dogs to writing about them, safety is my number one concern. My biggest pet
peeve (pun completely intended) is observing dogs in the laps of drivers in a
moving vehicle. My veterinarian friends all have stories to tell about dogs that
have fallen out of the window at speed. These injuries include broken bones,
smashed skulls, eyes falling out of the socket, and skin rubbed completely off
of the body, exposing muscle, tendons, and even bones. Some of these dogs go
through several costly, painful surgeries and many others do not survive.
Additionally, if the airbag is deployed due to an accident, little Fifi will
likely be crossing the Rainbow Bridge. These cases are incredibly sad
considering they are almost always prevented by making sure the dog is not
sticking his head out of the window and not sitting in the driver’s seat. So
while I think the bill is a great one to suggest given these terribly gruesome
and potentially fatal outcomes, there are some other considerations to weigh.
Maine
still has many farmers who use working dogs to protect livestock from coyotes
and other predators. These dogs often look like 100 pound polar bears (Kuvasz,
and Great Pyrenees). They are raised from puppy-hood with the sheep they guard.
When a coyote or other predator threatens the flock, the guarding dog comes out
of hiding with her teeth bared, and typically wins. These dogs, while
incredibly social with their sheep, are often not known for their flexibility
regarding changing environment, new people, and new experiences which makes
situations of restraining these dogs by way of seat belt or crate to go to the
veterinarian a much more challenging and stressful event. I’d personally
suggest that during the socialization period, these dogs are acclimated slowly
to crates, harnesses and travel, but because their job is to live with and
protect the flock, that can be tricky.
The other
big hurdle that I can’t seem to shake relates to the safety of the harnesses
and crates that dogs would presumably have to use to get from point A to point
B. Until very recently, independent studies on the efficacy and safety of pet
travel gear didn’t exist. Every harness, crate, and restraint system sold was
tested by the company that created the device, which in short, meant there was
no standard of safety. The company could throw a piece of lettuce at the device
and suggest the harness stood up to “rigorous testing,” stamp it as “safe,” and
sell it to you. That is, until the Center for Pet Safety came along with some eye opening crash tests in 2013.
The
Center for Pet Safety (CenterForPetSafety.org) is the first independent group
to test restraint systems against a standard. They teamed up with Maine’s State
commuting vehicle maker, Subaru, to test harnesses and crates in real crash
tests. These crash tests were conducted in the same facilities used to test car
seats for kids and seat belts. The dummy dogs used in these tests were weighted
like, and looked like, common pet dogs. This was by design so when the tests were
running, people didn’t see a fake dog cruising through the air - people saw a
real likeness of a dog cruising through the air.
When
Dr. Sip and I saw the videos of the crash tests, each of us watching on
opposite coasts of the US, the line went silent. We saw dogs in harnesses that
were labeled as “safe” fly through the air when the straps failed, and through
where the windshield would be at 30mph. There was a dachshund that sailed
through the belted-in mesh dog crate as if there was nothing more protecting
the dog than a sheet of printer paper. The solid crates dented and collapsed,
no doubt causing injury or death to the animal trapped inside.
What
was particularly heartbreaking was just a few months before, Dr. Sip and I had
recommended all pets be restrained in either a harness or a crate when
traveling to cut down on distracted driving, and then the Center for Pet Safety
results came across our desks and we just wanted to cry. Recommending pets are
confined or restrained is certainly something we would love to do, except there
are only a few tools on the market that meet independent safety standards, and
the ones that are actually safe are cost prohibitive. The ones that don’t meet
the standards give an owner a sense of false sense of security and likely won’t
keep Fido safe in an accident.
My
feeling on this whole thing, and I know not everyone will agree, is that we can
at least make sure that dogs don’t have their heads out the windows while we
are driving. Rocks and debris that can crack your windshield can cause
significant damage to a dog’s eye, nose, or face if hit. Very few things are
more distracting than a dog spurting blood and howling in pain while your eyes
are supposed to be on the road. If a dog were to fall out of the car at speeds,
fatalities are likely. If an accident were to occur and the dog is in the front
seat when an airbag is deployed, the dog will not likely survive. I also feel
if a dog that can be safely restrained to reduce distracted driving, this can
minimize the risk of an accident to begin with. These are all things we can all
do to really keep our dogs safe.
Where
we get into murky waters is if a dog is more stressed out by the restraints
which can lead to an increase in distracted driving, or if the equipment
doesn’t work in an accident. After purchasing a safe harness for Captain, he
twisted and turned so much he got himself stuck in a way my husband and I
couldn’t fix on I 95. The equipment needs to be better. This is where companies
can come in to aid this process. Currently, the only harness on the Center for
Pet Safety approved list is the Sleepypod ClickIt Harness, but others are
stepping up to the plate. Companies like Kurgo had changed the design of their
harness to meet the rigors of crash tests in their own testing trials, but have
not yet been tested by the independent group (as of this writing in 2017). For the record, only three crates
met the safety requirements set by the Center for Pet Safety but they did not test other crates that could potentially pass independent tests.
I
wanted to see a bill that would result in safer travel for our four-legged
companions. Stories of dogs that are thrown from the car during an accident,
resulting in that dog being hit by another car, or missing for weeks on end if
they are found at all, are incredibly heart breaking. Stories from my
veterinarian friends of dogs falling out of the car window, an event that could
be completely prevented if the dog didn’t have access to the down window or was
not sitting in a driver’s lap are emotionally crushing. The ultimate emotional
wound striking the owner of a dog in surgery while they recount, “but it was
his favorite thing to have his head out the window.” These actions often come
from a place of joy and love. We love our dogs and want them to be happy, so we
let them ride on our laps or sniff the breeze as it whirrrrrrs by their
olfactory organ at 55 mph on Rt 1. We never want anything to happen to our
pets, our precious cargo, but at the same time, I can’t in good conscience
state that all dogs need to be restrained in a car, at least, not until the
equipment is affordable and safe for all four-legged passengers. While I’m glad
the bill was proposed to start a conversation, I don’t think we can legislate
something like this right now, though if cops wanted to ticket people with dogs
on their laps or heads out of the windows as “distracted driving”I’d be 100% in favor.
Companies
are catching up, costs are coming down, and cars are even starting to consider our pets as passengers with special Fido Features. While we are getting there,
we are not there yet. I’m with the American Veterinary Association on this one
- I highly recommend at least preventing distracted driving by restraining a
dog in a moving vehicle. Don’t play, feed, or try to train your dog while you
are operating a car. If possible, make sure pets are traveling in the back
seat, away from airbags. If you can afford to swing for the $500 Gunner Kennel,
by all means, go for it. If you cannot afford that or drive a Honda Fit, do the
best you can with the tools you have to keep your pet as safe as you possibly
can by preventing accidents from the minute the key is turned. Lastly, do
yourself a favor, and see a science based, positive reinforcement trainer to
help your pet acclimate to a restraint system if you think you’ll ever need to
transport your dog anywhere, including the veterinarian. A veterinarian who
will hopefully be seeing Sparky for an annual visit and not for any of the
injuries in this article.
Melissa McCue-McGrath, CPDT-KA is one-half of the FIDO Blogging Team at
Car Talk Plaza. She is also the co-Training Director at New England Dog
Training Club and the author of ‘Considerations for the City Dog.”
A few weeks ago, I wrapped up my 5 part series with @2DogsTreats where we covered the elements in dog training necessary for living in an urban setting. Here they are in full with some funnies to get you in the mood for a little pup training!
1. Name recognition (it sounds totally basic, but what do you want your dog to DO when you say his name? If "ignore me completely" isn't your answer, then check this out.)
2. Leave it(or affectionately called The Chicken Bone Command)
We got a new dog over the winter break. After 7 months of looking (and even having a dog in the home), we found our unicorn dog.
Our daughter named him "Captain Love", and while it sounds suspiciously like a 1970's porn star, we thought her rationale for the name was pretty sweet.
"Mommy? We should name him Captain Love."
"Why, kiddo?"
"We could call him Captain for a nickname, but his real name is Love. Because I love him."
For obvious reasons, we will not be yelling "Captain Love, Come!" at the dog park. We just call him "Captain." Though he strikes me more of a Gilligan than a Captain, this will certainly be a story that will be told a million times.
We just call him Captain.
In the last week of having a dog, it made me appreciate so many things that I took for granted with Sadie and Zeppelin. For starters, both of them eventually learned to walk on a leash past distractions and could give attention with a single call of their name. Let's just say with Captain, we have a long way to go (though he does strike me as an eager and fast learner). I think his parents were a "Distracta-hound" and "Adora-mutt", but that's just my hunch.
Other things that I've relearned after 15 months of not having a dog live with us:
I forgot what 6am looked like because I was sleeping.
COLD COLD COLD F*CK IT'S COLD WHY DID WE GET A DOG IN DECEMBER IN NEW ENGLAND? Dude, just PEE already...COLD!
Ooh, warm puppy couch cuddles are the best!
Wait...Buddy, what are you chewing on? No, not the CELL PHONE!
Now that we have a natural predator in the home again, I've relearned where all the kitty hiding spots are located.
Frito Feet.
We are all aware of how reactive Sadie was to noises, and are so thrilled that the heater, mailman, trucks, neighbors and pretty much any city noise seems to go unnoticed by our hound. Gone are the days where we had to make sure Sadie was out of the house when the heater kicked on, lest we had a shaking puppy.
That said, because I started off always reacting to Sadie's reactivity, I felt like I was one step behind. We're taking a lot of preventative measures with Captain, and it seems to be paying off in spades so far. Dogs barking outside? Look buddy - puzzle toys!
Oh, right - I have to move the cat box where he can't help himself to kitty crunchies....
This list will undoubtedly get longer as we navigate living with a dog again, this time with a toddler. For now, it's nice to curl up with a baby on one side, and a dog on the other, and enjoy the comfort of the couch on this very cold winter day.
In short, a reward is in the eye of the recipient. I think of Ron Weasley from Harry Potter and the hand knit sweater. He REALLY didn't want the sweater his mom made him for Christmas - he got one every year and was embarrassed by them. Harry, never having a sweater, really was touched by the gift Mrs. Weasley made him.
Last night, we had a good lesson in "rewards."
Aislyn, my three year old daughter, is trying a full night without her bedroom light. I told her she had to pick her binky or the light (she picked binky) AND she gets a reward of whatever she wants for breakfast tomorrow morning if she can make it through the night.
"I want a Nutella and orange cheese stick sandwich."
"Can I just make you a peanut butter and Nutella sandwich?"
"No. Nutella and cheese stick."
"Ok, Nutella and cheese."
"NO, Mom. Cheese STICK."
So, a reward I never .... never would have thought of - a Nutella and Cheese STICK sandwich.
Now, I could have given her a new toy. I could have given her a peanut butter sandwich. I could have had a dance party with her. Those things would not have been as rewarding as a Nutella and cheese stick sandwich.
Dog help us if we were out of Nutella. Or cheese sticks.
Luckily, she decided at the last minute to have the cheese stick on the side so it didn't get messy.
This is a real reward.
Think about that the next time your dog won't come when called. Was he expecting a game with you and you just pet him on the top of his head? Is that head rub rewarding at all to your dog? We know you think it is but does your dog perceive that as a reward?
Does the behavior of "come" increase or decrease with a head rub instead of a game of tug or a piece of cheese?
Yesterday I met Emily Cassel, the managing editor of Somerville Scout.
This little guy was roaming the streets of Somerville at Porchfest earlier this year. Photo by Emily Cassel.
We had a lovely chat about dogs, the book, and life in an urban environment with pups while we were sipping on iced coffee. All while my toddler slept! Life is good. Here is our interview about the book, #HandsOnFirst and everything #CityDog!
(I admit - though it's a very sweet interview, I teared up because she included my girl, Sadie at the very end :) )
-M3
I can't say it enough: food toys and puzzle games are mandatory for our urban dogs. Dogs who roam freely spend upwards of 85% of their day just looking for food, according to Dr. Nicholas Dodman at Tufts. That's a lot more time devoted to a job than anything most of our pet dogs experience. Most dogs just hang out, barking at the neighbors all day. They need something to keep them busy.
Most dogs prefer to eat in 30 seconds flat after the food hits the bottom of the dish. By the time you put the bag of dog food away, they are looking at you expectantly, as if to say "That would have been delicious if I took the time to taste it. Now what do we do!?! ADVENTURES!"
Having a dog eat out of a puzzle toy is the easiest thing to stave off boredom, and keep them busy for 10 minutes while you take a shower, or prepare to leave for work.
I always advise my students to go through the following routine:
-Buy 6-8 Kongs
-Fill them once a week with a mix of their Kibble and yogurt (or peanut butter, cream cheese, soft dog food, or something palatable/soft to mix with the kibble).
-Stuff the Kong and put in the freezer.
-Give dog the Kong at breakfast, dinner or as a goodie to distract from jumping on company.
The problem with this comes in two forms.
1. If the Kong is just hanging out in the freezer, the soft substance goops up the freezer, because it leaks during the freezing process.
2. If you try to put these in a bag first, they don't get quite as frozen, and your hands get yucky when you remove the Kong from the bag.
Instead, the next time you make a 12 egg omelet, save the carton. Put the egg carton on the inside of the freezer door, and put the stuffed Kongs pointy end down into the egg cartons. The cardboard (or Styrofoam) will catch all the goopy stuff you don't want to clean out in a year, and the Kongs get solidly frozen.
Viola!
Let me know what you think, and what you have used to help your dog stay busy! There are thousands of puzzle toys out there. Even just sprinkling kibble in a clean back yard (no pesticides, cocoa mulch, or other poisonous substances should be around!) can give a more sedentary dog a little break from the monotony of eating out of a food dish.
The temperature is up to a balmy 45, which means only one thing in New England- it's OUTSIDE SEASON! Activities can include hiking, running, or going to the dog park. Here are 5 easy things that you can do right now to make sure your dog is happy, healthy, and behaviorally set for the season to come!
5. Don't Keep Fido on a Leash in the Dog Park.
If you or someone you know is taking your dog to the dog park only to keep him leashed to "socialize" him, you might be doing more harm than good. Barrier Reactivity is a real thing that is quite common in the city. If you have a dog in a fenced in dog park who is leashed, chances are with every interaction that dog is having, there is tension on the leash, adding to the frustration in the leashed dog. In a matter of time (minutes, or weeks) that dog is likely going to develop frustration linked to being held back. If you are going to the dog park, and your dog is friendly, take him off leash. If you are not sure if your dog is a candidate for the dog park, read this article from the ASPCA to help you figure out how to introduce your dog to the dog park, or IF you should.
4. If Your Dog Is Off Leash, Have A Reliable Recall On Your Dog.
I've written several times about the importance of having a reliable recall on your dog. When you say "COME!", your dog should come to you and be able to get leashed if need be without blowing you off, or introducing a game of "come chase me!" to the command. For starters, your dog might be super friendly, but the dog who he's running up to might have an issue with a charging dog bounding up to say hi. I don't like strangers tearing off across a field to embrace me in a hug, and I know for certain that my dog doesn't like it, either. If your dog can't handle off leash time (legality aside of being off leash in most parks!), you need to work on recall. Off leash time is earned, not a right for your dog. It's a matter of safety.
3. Check These Etiquette Rules From Dr. Sophia Yin
Does your dog jump on people at the park? Do you let it slide? Read this quick blog post article and see what you can do to avoid being "that guy" at the dog park. There are great illustrations to show what to do, and what not to do, from the one and only, Dr. Sophia Yin.
2. Watch the Temperature
In New England, the temperatures can go from 45 to 85 in a period of a few weeks, and then back down to 60. It's important to know what your dog can, and should, handle as it pertains to heat. Brachycephalic breeds (dogs with pushed-in-faces, like pug, bulldogs, and Boston terriers) have a harder time regulating their temperatures. Puppies don't know when to quit no matter what the weather. Older dogs might not be able to handle warm weather, either. It's also important to note the temperature of the sidewalks: if it's 85 degrees in the blistering sun at noon, it's best to not have dogs walking on the hot concrete. They can burn the delicate pads as they are the only body part that is not protected by fur. Time your walks appropriately, and be mindful of your pup. They might be stubborn, but if it's hot outside your bulldog is better for you not pushing it.
1. If Your Dog Doesn't Like The Park Anymore, It's Totally OK!
When I was a kid, I loved the little kid park. Now that I'm older, I like a cocktail party. My needs and desires have changed greatly with my adult personality, and our dogs have changing preferences, too. Dogs who used to like playing with puppies, might not appreciate those "young whippersnappers" rudely lapping under their chins now that they are adult dogs. They might not like sharing their ball, or your affections with other dogs. Besides, at the dog park, there are a lot of dogs there, and not all are behaviorally sound, or give off good social cues. If your dog has been going to the park long enough, statistically it's bound to happen that time will toll on your dog and all the years of bad body language from a few dogs will make your dog think twice about bounding with other playmates. As your dog ages, they might really enjoy the company of 1-2 other dogs, or a play group with the same cast of characters instead of the who-knows-who-will-be-there at the local park.
If your dog is reactive in the presence of toys near other dogs, it's not fair for your dog to feel stressed out. It's best to find another outlet for your pup, where they can play without worrying that some young dog is going to take their prized ball (or worse - your attention!) Take your dog at a time when no one is at the park, or find another area to platy fetch with your dog, and make sure you have a reliable recall on your pup so you can call Fido over to you in the event another dog arrives at your secret spot. (See #4 for videos pertaining to this). It's worse to force your dog to go to the park to play around other dogs if they aren't enjoying the game anymore. Find another outlet. It's totally OK. I promise!
There is no shame in not going to the park anymore. Just think of it as the highest honor your dog can give you: they prefer you to the other dogs, which might be harder for you, but in the end, is pretty cool.
In the interim, it's also important to work with your dog to safely instill confidence (not every dog will take your toy!) so if you would like to work with a certified professional on this, use positive techniques as aversive training can add more stress to your already stressed out pup. If your dog thinks that another dog means a collar pop or an alpha roll, they are likely to become more stressed out over time, which is the opposite of confidence training. You want your dog to look forward to other dogs, but also trust that you will provide adequate space. It's a dance and an important one, so find someone suited for this work by searching the APDT, CCPDT or KPA websites for more information.
I don't know if you noticed, but it's really cold out.
Yes, it's New England in the winter, but the wind chill is putting us in the negative teens.The entire country is dealing with this intense cold, which will likely be the driving force behind the Orange Juice Price Hike of 2014.
Actual photo taken this week of the St. Joseph's Lighthouse in Michigan. Credit: Joshua Nowicki
I've seen everything on Facebook from "get your dog inside - if it's too cold for you, it's too cold for your dog!" to "Dogs have fur coats and will be fine. I wish I had a fur coat!"
Your Dog Has A Fur Coat: He's Fine! (Or....not)
Cold is cold is cold. Some dogs LOVE this weather. That same dog who loves snow now, might not when she has arthritis, or lives in the city where there might not be as much snow to play in.
Yes, your dog is related to wolves who survive annual frigid conditions, but our domestic dogs are not wolves. For starters, snow is insulating, so for the dogs who are bred for blizzard conditions (like Huskies, Malamutes, and other double coated breeds) the snow greatly helps them survive the bone chilling cold. They curl up in the snow, let the snow fall on them, tuck their feet under their warm body, and their tail covers their nose. They let the snow fall on them and they are very well insulated. This is often not what you find with most dogs in suburban/urban environments - especially Pugs who are both short coated, and their tail won't reach their pushed in nose!
The dogs that also survive these conditions, like the wolves, need to be conditioned to the cold weather and get physically prepared for it. Dogs running in the Iditarod are not dogs that have lived in a warm apartment for 10 months, then just travel north for a two week jaunt in the Tundra. They train, like Olympians, for endurance, speed, and acclimation to the weather.
Boots? Coats? For my DOG? Really?
In the city, we shovel sidewalks, exposing the naked pads of their feet to icy concrete. This is perhaps the part I'm most concerned about. The pads of their feet are completely exposed and can get frostbite, just like our exposed skin. Add salt to those sidewalks (to make it easier for people to walk on) and your poor dog is literally adding salt to the wounds of frostbite & cuts caused by the salt.
Do your dog a solid, and condition them to boots if you live in the city. Not only will it protect your pup from salt, and is the easiest way to prevent ice balls forming in between the paw pads (which can be very painful), but they are easier to clean than Mushers Wax (more on that in a moment). If conditioning them to boots is not an option, keep your walks brief and keep their skin safe.
Dogs can also suffer frostbite to their ears, nose, and other exposed areas. Short haired breeds (like the French Bulldog, Pointer, Greyhounds, etc) don't have enough fur or fat to be protective with these conditions, so consider getting these dogs a jacket for their morning walk.
Lastly, older dogs can't regulate their temperature as easily. If your pet suffers from arthritis or other age related conditions, a coat can help them feel more comfortable.
A Note On Mushers Wax/Mushers Secret:
I grew up with a dog-sledding team and we used wax on their paws frequently to prevent snow balls turning to ice between the dogs paws, which can cause significant pain. It is basically like chap-stick, in that it was a thin protective layer against the elements, but I wouldn't consider it a means of keeping my lips warm. It also doesn't prevent salt from cutting into the skin.
In the city, Mushers Secret is better than nothing, but it really is designed for running in the snow. Salt on sidewalks can stick to the wax, creating a nice mess to clean up with your dog runs through your house when you get home. It's not designed to keep their paws warm, it's not designed explicitly for salt protection, and they can still get frostbite, especially if they are walking through cold slush or bare sidewalks. That being said, it is absolutely better than nothing at all. I just don't want you to think that if you have Mushers Wax on your dogs paws, that your dog is totally 100% protected, and go on an epic 8 mile walk in the city with your pup in this weather. It's much better for an epic romp in the woods on freshly fallen snow, or for a short walk around your neighborhood.
Final Thoughts:
If you are a city dweller, condition your dog to liking the boots - one boot at a time, over a period of a few days. Then add a second boot, and continue until your dog is really comfortable with the process. This will ensure your dog is comfortable and conditioned properly.
Or, just go hog wild, put all four paws in the boots, and upload your pup to Youtube.
Get your pup, especially short coated dogs, older dogs, and dogs who can't regulate their temperatures very well, a snazzy warm coat. Keep an eye on their ears, nose and paw pads, as they will likely be the first to show signs of frostbite.
And as our dogs are related to wolves, they are no more wolves than we are chimps. Though I love the idea of climbing trees on the equator, I'm not conditioned for it, and neither is my Border Collie to the Polar Vortex. We're staying in and staying warm.
Often, dog owners will get a harness to help their dog. Sometimes the dog is pulling excessively, or is choking himself, but the type of harness matters significantly to help curb problem behaviors while walking.
This harness clips to the back, is made of nylon, and is REALLY comfortable -
especially if the dog enjoys pulling on a leash
Compare the above harness, which clips to the back of the dog, stretchy, padded in all the right places to the harnesses in the below photograph, which clip to the back of the dog, are stretchy, and padded in all the right places.
"Wheeee! Pulling is FUN!"
I'm going write about other walking devices in follow up posts (Harnesses, Head Collars, Aversive Collars, and Other Training Tools) so you can hopefully find the right walking/training device for you and your pup.
Harnesses:
There are thousands of harnesses to chose from - some of them stating that they are "No Pull", some are nylon and stretchy, and many are just damned cute. Some are step-in harnesses, and some slide over the head of the dog. The possibilities are endless!
Puppia Harness
Rogz-Dogz Utility Harness
If you have a dog that walks beautifully on leash, doesn't pull, and is trained to walk with you, a standard back attach harness might be a good option for you (see the options above). Our greyhound walks with a back clip harness because he does not pull, and has a neck injury that tends to get aggravated when he is walked with his standard collar.
If, however, walking your dog feels like a form of medieval torture, you might wish to try a harness designed to take some of the ease out of the pull (and your rotator cuff).
Sensation Harness. Available at some boutiques and online. Fits better on adolescent and skinnier chested dogs than the more commercially available Easy Walk.
Easy Walk Harness. More commercially available than the Sensation, not appropriate for "skinny" dogs . Better for dogs with a broader chest.
Sporn No-Pull Mesh Harness: Pulls the front legs up when the dog pulls. Some dogs are sensitive to the pressure put on the legs, and it can chafe.
I'm a huge fan of the Sense-ation Harness. This harness is a front clip design, where the leash attaches to the chest of the dog instead of on the back. When the dog pulls, his momentum is stopped. I used a harness like this on our Border Collie with fantastic success. Some other examples include the Easy Walk Harness (from our friends at Premier, and clips to the chest) , and the Sporn Harness (clips to the back, pulls dogs front legs off the ground when they pull).
It's important to note that some dogs suddenly and miraculously walk much better when on a harness. However, most dogs will do well with this equipment as a device to help TRAIN the dog not to pull. There are several humane methods to teach your dog not to pull. This is one of my favorite methods for real life training outside.
Pros:
-The leash attaches to a ring on the back or chest of the dog, leaving the esophagus, airway, and neck vertebrae at minimal risk of injury.
-For dogs with spinal injuries or other medical conditions, this is a good alternative for walking with a collar around the neck.
-Some sports or work require the dog to be in a harness (Skijoring, Tracking, or Search and Rescue work to name a few), and all of these harnesses encourage pulling. This is a "pro" if you are engaged in an activity/sport where you need the dog to pull.
-Many of the Chest Clip harnesses (like Sensation and Easy Walk) slide comfortably over the head of the dog - no more pulling the harness through each of the front legs.
Cons:
-If you have the wrong harness, it can encourage pulling behaviors, making it difficult to walk your dog.
-Step-In Harnesses are inconvenient to get on and off of a dog.
A student sent me this video yesterday, and I snorted seltzer out of my nose. I'm pretty sure the dog is named Jesus Christ.....
Humorous as the video is, it really illustrates why it's critical to have a reliable recall on your dog before letting them off leash. Dogs have 4 legs, we have 2. Guess who's going to win in a foot race every time? More importantly consider the following scenario: Your incredibly friendly, social dog is racing across a field to say hi to another dog - but that dog might not be too keen on your dogs exuberant greeting behavior, and may react with a growl, lunge, or bite.
Rule #1 of dog training: Your dog might be friendly, but that doesn't mean every other dog wants to be it's friend. Rule #2 of dog training: Have a solid recall on your dog.
How to Get A Reliable Recall:
Here is a quick video on theory:
and how to use a long line to start recall training:
You can also take formal classes to work on recall, or join a club. Every basic manners class should have dedicate time to recall basics while working on other basic skills (sit, down, stay, don't eat that), and some classes are even designed specifically for working on one thing only- getting your dog to come when called.
And then, there is my favorite way to work recall and off leash skills with a dog: Sports. In most dog sports, (Obedience, Rally, Agility, Frisbee, etc), the dog has to be able to execute skills, such as "go this way", "do this thing", "come" and "stay" while off leash...and it looks REALLY cool!
The reason this works? It's fun for the handler, and for the dog. Mark
demonstrates the basic principle of come when called while competing with his dog - YOU HAVE TO BE
MORE EXCITING THAN ALL THOSE OTHER EXCITING THINGS, which isn't always easy to do, and he never yells at the dog for coming to him. "Fido, come here NOW" and getting a whack on the nose, or getting his nails clipped is a surefire way to insure your dog never comes when you call.
So in short:
- Never let your dog off leash until you have a reliable recall on your dog.
- Use a long line to work longer distances.
- Find a way to be more exciting than a squirrel (highly motivating treats, frisbee, ball, whatever your dog likes)
- If your dog doesn't come, make it easier for your dog to be successful (shorter distance/fewer distractions)
- Keep practicing, join a club, take a class, or start dabbling in sports to make things interesting and fun!
I can't in good conscience let you all go without a few tips for safe Thanksgiving practices. For those who are traveling, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a pet first aid kit in the car (this is a good idea year round, but especially for traveling). The AVMA has a great list to get you started , but here are a few other things to put in your first aid kit:
Little Kid Socks - we use toddler socks as a wrap over gauze for our border collie. She often scrapes the bottom of her feet, and if she's bleeding, it can sometimes be a challenge to keep her still while we wrap her up. In a pinch, the sock can be folded and used as a small square to sop up blood, but we cover her scratches with Neosporin, gauze, the sock, and some athletic tape.
Neosporin (or some other ointment for scrapes/minor cuts, etc): As mentioned above, when we travel, we're often zooming through woods, or at least bombing through some back yards. This time of year, sticks, rocks, and acorns are EVERYWHERE, and sometimes dogs paws can get a little cut up.
Vet Wrap: Vet wrap is a staple in our kit. Vet Wrap is a self-sticking bandage that goes over gauze and other padding to protect the gauze/injury site. In our case, Zep ripped out his dew claw (again) and is sporting non-stick gauze (for the injury site), thick padding gauze (for protection against bumping it into things, because lets face it - greyhounds are not graceful in a home environment), and some vet wrap over the padded gauze.
I've also used some of the vet wrap for my own hands - when working with puppies, and really mouthy adolescent dogs,sometimes there is bleeding on the joints of fingers or the tips of fingers/thumbs, where it's really hard to get a band-aid to stick. Vet wrap is really handy - put the band-aid on, then cover with vet wrap. Viola - band-aid stays put, and you can rock whatever color you like.
Phone Numbers & Important Paperwork: We don't like to think of our dogs as getting injured or sick when we travel, but it happens. My poor husband had to clean out his brand new Mini Cooper on its inaugural drive to Maine a few years ago after Sadie had .... an explosion of sorts. We were close enough to drive home and see our vet, but sometimes, that just isn't the case.
Get the number of the nearest veterinarian AND the nearest 24 hour emergency clinic BEFORE YOU LEAVE ON YOUR TRIP. The time to look for those numbers isn't when you're in panic mode when your dog is bleeding, vomiting, or otherwise in bad shape.
Keep a copy of your dogs rabies certificate with you: If your dog gets bit by a skunk, bat, another dog, or if your dog bites another dog/human on your trip, you will need to provide proof of vaccination. It's best to have the certificate - the rabies tag doesn't give the information required for medical professionals. They need the administering vet's information, the batch of the rabies vaccine, and the date given/date expires of the vaccine. Trying to call your vet on a holiday weekend might be difficult, and if it happens on a Sunday, you won't be able to get the info you need. Take a photo of the certificate with your iPhone, or keep a copy of it in your dogs travel bag.
....AND a current photo of your pet with you. If your dog ends up running off, having a current photo with you will make it much easier to make signs to post around the neighborhood.
A Few More Sites: If you're interested in learning more about safety precautions while traveling, what human foods are dangerous for your dog (grapes, raisins, and onions to name a few), or killing time before you take off for a long holiday weekend - well, here you go:
Human Foods NOT For Puppy Consumption
This is perhaps the link I can recommend the most. It has a list of
foods that might be toxic to your dog, and the number for Poison Control
(a fee is incurred if you call Poison Control, but if your dog just ate
a whole box of Russel Stauffers and washed it down with a glass of
wine, you need to call them IMMEDIATELY: 888-426-4435). There is another list that I
like, and it includes some items not on the toxic list that I often get
questions about. That list can be found right here. They answer the question about what part of the Tomato is toxic to your dog, and the low-down on Garlic.
Cartalk on F.I.D.O I love the Car Talk Guys, Tom and Ray. They offer a full site on how to safely travel with your dogs, why they shouldn't be allowed to stick their heads out the window while driving, and what to do if your dog gets car sick.
For full list and lighthearted humor, check out I Has A Hotdog
For all of you out there that read - thank you :) If you travel, have a safe trip. If you're staying at home & cooking, I hope it's as stress-free as it can possibly be. And remember what this day is all about - giving thanks and reflection as we head into the doldrums of winter. Let those things that keep you going continue to keep your heart warm as we head into another New England Winter.
And just for fun, a list of things I'm thankful for:
What? They're winning :)
Friends, Family, and Boston
A questionable sense of humor
NPR
The Dogs and their undying loyalty, even in the pouring rain.
I frequently mention the Kyjen Tail Teaser (please, don't google "Tail Teaser" - lots of interesting things come up on image search.) I love this toy, and better yet, so does my high energy dog.
Here is a short video on how to use the toy in a small space, still work on great skills (such as Take It, Drop It and Tug), and exercise your dog! (Thanks to Peter at Riverdog in Union Square for introducing us to this wonderful toy!)
For more information on how to keep your dog tired, click here.
For more information on teaching your dog Drop it and Leave it, click here.
And for more information on Tug of War (is it good, is it bad, how to play, does it cause aggression?) click here.
We are all specialists, and we overlap. But who will be right for your particular needs?
Often, when people call a trainer, they might be referred instead to a Behavior Consultant or a Veterinary Behaviorist. Sometimes, when you see your vet, they might recommend a trainer for an issue at home. The guy at the dog park suggests that you need a Behavioralist
(pssst: there is no such thing as a behavioralist in the dog training/behavior world. It's a political science term).
Here is a quick breakdown as to what exactly a Trainer, Veterinary Behaviorist, and Behavior Consultant do, the overlap, how each can help, and ways to find the appropriate specialist for you!
Trainer
Some Associated Certifications - CPDT-KA & CPDT-KSA (Certification Council of Pet Dog Trainers); ABC (Animal Behavior College); KPCT (Karen Pryor Academy)
K9 S.A.T's:
"Sit: Butt on ground.
Down: Lay on belly.
I think I got it.."
What trainers do:
Trainers are the teachers of the animal world, and the way they teach takes several different forms. They can teach group classes that works on the basics (sit, down, stay, recall), individual or private training in your home (home school!), and sports (such as agility, nose-work, K9 disk). They also can focus on formal obedience, rally, dock diving, and other activities in the form of a club, class, or organization.
Trainers also focus on manners - if you have a door dasher or a counter surfer, you might call a trainer. If you have a dog that is reactive on a leash walk, looking to prepare for a new baby, or puppy manners, a trainer is the right specialist for you.
Trainers are the Teachers of the dog world. They focus on giving necessary skills to cope in a human environment.
Where they overlap with other specialists:
Trainers tend to work on tricks, manners, and sports - but dog trainers also work to affect emotion and behavior. Sometimes, a dog that is exhibiting bad manners might have an acute emotional response to leash walks, or being left alone. Many trainers can help with mild-moderate cases separation anxiety, leash reactivity, mild fear of strangers, and some cases of aggression.
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Where a trainer would not be appropriate:
-Trainers are not veterinarians. Though trainers can suspect some medical problems, and even guess correctly what the problem is, they do not have the medical expertise to diagnose medical situations in an animal and have no business diagnosing ANY medical issue. A good trainer will say "this looks wrong. See your vet".
-When a behavior is so acute (a dog who shuts down in a classroom setting, a dog who aggresses at any new person in the home, severe separation anxiety), and the only way to help the animal is to work on emotional response, a Behavior Consultant or Veterinary Behaviorist might be more appropriate depending on the degree of the problem behavior.
Where a trainer WOULD be appropriate:
-Classroom work (puppy class; adolescent class; basic manners; specialized classes)
-Door dashing
-Normal "manners" issues
-Sports
-Reactivity to dogs, other people
-Mild/moderate fear issues.
-Referred by a Behavior Consultant or a Veterinary Behaviorist.
What Behavior Consultants do:
Behavior Consultants have a scientific interest in why animals do what they do - and more specifically, why a behavior goes awry. They are the psychologists of the animal world.
If a dog is having an acute emotional response to the mailman, is aggressing at people and has a bite history, has moderate-severe separation anxiety, and seems to be really having a difficult time emotionally with one (or more) parts of daily life, then a Behavior Consultant might be the way for you to go.
Real behavior consultants have certifications and have taken classes / attended seminars on animal behavior.
Applied Animal Behaviorists have a PhD in an animal related field.
If a guy is putting a prong collar on a dog and has never taken a class in animal behavior, he's not a behaviorist.
"Tell me about her" "I don't know how I can cope. She's such a bitch!" "Your mother?!?" "No, my Weimaraner!"
Where they overlap with other specialists:
Behavior Consultants are the bridge between the vets and the trainers, in that they use their training background to teach troubled dogs behaviors to build confidence, or teach dogs behaviors that are incompatible to the problem behavior they are exhibiting. Consultants also work very closely with Veterinary Behavior Specialists, and as a result, tend to have a working knowledge of some medical conditions that can produce (or exacerbate) certain behaviors.
A dog may act aggressively for either behavioral or medical reasons, or a combination of both. A good consultant would work closely with the client and the vet, to order medical tests that might give some insight to behavior problems, use both training and medical tools in order to help the animal cope. Not all behavior is medically related, but a good Behavior Consultant will be able to recognize certain red flags that might be an indicator that there is more going on to the behavior than meets the eye.
Where a Behavior Consultant would not be appropriate:
-Though Behavior Consultants work closely with Vets and Veterinary Behaviorists, they can not diagnose medical conditions, nor can they prescribe medicine to your pet (unless, they also have a medical degree).
Where a Behavior Consultant WOULD be appropriate:
-Separation Anxiety
-Moderate to Severe cases of leash aggression/reactivity
-Mild-Moderate cases of suspected compulsive disorders
-If you suspect there might be a link between health and behavior
-Any dog with an existing bite history/you suspect your dog will bite
-Emotional / anxiety disorders or behaviors driving by intense fear/anxiety in your dog
-Referred by a Veterinary Behaviorist or a Trainer.
What Veterinary Behaviorists do:
I can't say it any better than the Tufts Cummings School puts it, so I'll just quote from them:
Veterinary behaviorists are veterinarians with a special interest in
animal behavior. Some veterinary behaviorists have completed residency
programs after graduating from veterinary school and some have passed
an exam given by the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists.
Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists
(ACVB) have attained specialist status in veterinary behavior. They
are doctors of veterinary medicine who received additional training
in clinical veterinary behavior and satisfied the certification requirements
of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists. These veterinary
behaviorists are “board-certified” diplomats of the American
College of Veterinary Behaviorists.
Veterinary behaviorists are trained and licensed to diagnose
and treat problems in animals, whether they are medical or behavioral.
Being veterinarians, these behaviorists can diagnose medical problems
that may be contributing to the animals’ behavioral problems.
A veterinary behaviorist is also licensed to prescribe drugs and is
familiar with psychotropic medications (tranquilizers and anti-depressants),
their uses and side effects.
Where they overlap with other specialists:
Veterinary Behaviorists have an interest in behavior problems (like the consultant) and they use some training techniques to modify behavior (like the trainer). They have the added benefit of a medical degree so they can most directly treat AND diagnose behavior problems (one stop shopping). The Veterinary Behaviorist does not always use medication to treat behavior problems, but they are the most qualified to see the links between behavior, nutrition and health, and can prescribe medication if necessary.They are often the person that is requested when a behavior is really out of the ordinary, medical issues are suspected/documented, or a last ditch effort before sadder, more drastic measures are taken.
Veterinary Behavior Specialists are also commonly known as "the guys who deal with OCD". If you have a dog that has a behavior that is just extreme in some way (licks his leg to the point of bleeding or compulsion; chases light or shadows; chases his tail compulsively and can't be distracted; behaviors that look cute at first, but are REALLY problematic in real life), there is help. We in Massachusetts are perhaps the luckiest people when it comes to dog behavior problems - we have the foremost researcher and Veterinary Behaviorist, Nicholas Dodman BVMS, DACVB, DACVA (Tufts Cummings Behavior Clinic in Grafton, and you probably have seen him on Animal Planet) AND Sheila Segurson D’Arpino DVM, DACV (Animal Rescue League in Boston)
The dog in the above video is spinning compulsively, and can't seem to stop. Even while the other dogs bark and lunge while spinning, this dog is undeterred from this problem behavior. If you see compulsive type behaviors, see a vet behavior specialist.
There are only about 60 Veterinary Behavior Specialists available. That
being said, if you are not lucky enough to live near a specialist, some
(like Dr. Dodman) partake in a Vet Fax program,
where your vet will work with a behavior specialist in your region to
get you the help you require. As a result of being a rare bird, and a
very specialized niche, Vet Behavior Specialists are not cheap - but if
you have a real problem behavior, or this is your last ditch effort to
make things work, their experience is invaluable.
Where a Veterinary Behaviorist would not be appropriate:
-If you have a dog who is exuberantly jumping up on you at home, or you have a dog that needs a puppy class, see a trainer.
-If you need help with recalling your dog in distracting situations, call a trainer.
-If you need help with a leash aggressive dog that isn't globally fearful, talk with a Trainer or a Behavior Consultant.
Where a Veterinary Behaviorist WOULD be appropriate:
-Compulsive Disorders/Suspected Compulsive disorders that can cause harm to the animal or others & can not be redirected.
-Behaviors that are extreme or excessive (severe separation anxiety, where a dog is causing himself physical harm due to anxiety; )
-Behaviors that are likely related to health or a medical situation.
- "The behavior was sudden, and went away as if nothing happened. It was like a light switch."
-Referred by a Trainer, your regular Vet, or a Behavior Consultant.
I hope this helps you figure out what each specialist does, how we overlap (there is quite a bit of overlap!) and what specialist might help you with your specific needs. To get you started, here are some sites to help you find a qualified professional in your area: If you need help finding a trainer, check out the CCPDT Trainer Search. If you need help finding a behavior consultant, check out the IAABC Behavior Consultant Search If you need help finding a board certified veterinary behaviorist, check out the DACVB list.
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