Happy Holidays!

Skeptoid on Pit Bulls

My friend, Matt, sent this podcast to me yesterday after I wrote about about a woman with a baby and two Pit Bulls.

Consider the following article the scientific follow up to what trainers, rescue groups, and breed enthusiasts have been saying for years.

This is a case where the value of good science is to drive policy. Most researchers agree that breed-specific legislation — a nice term for pit bull bans — are inappropriate.  No good data exists to demonstrate that such bans have had any impact. Improved enforcement of existing laws, and improved education for dog owners, are far more likely to reduce the number of dog bites, fatal or not.

Link to Skeptoid's Article/Podcast here.

Around The Internetz: Pit Bulls and Babies

I used Offbeat Bride almost exclusively when planning our wedding. Now that I'm an old married lady, I'm using a lot more of the Offbeat Empire, including Offbeat Home. It's Martha Stewart for crafty, artistic, outside the box types who aren't into Martha Stewart.

I frequently type in "Dogs" into the Empires search engine because they have great ideas for pets. Typing in "Dogs" this week, I got one post that really got my attention, and I have to share it here. It's written from a woman who has 2 Pit Bulls and a baby.

I'm not here to say my dogs are just like puggles or cockapoos. They are clearly not. Having them in our family means that there isn't any unsupervised play between the dogs and our son. There are also regular lessons on animal/baby kindness for all involved. But these things happen not because it's in my dogs' nature to attack. (Pit bulls were long called nanny dogs because of how great they are with children!) The supervision and the boundaries I set happen simply because we aim to be responsible parents and dog owners.

Well said, Julie. Well said.

The thing I love about this is that she doesn't say "it's easy having a Pit and a youngster". She admits that her dogs are big, tough, and that they need a lot of the magic word: MANAGEMENT. She also states that her baby is not allowed to play unsupervised with either dog, and that the thing that bothers her more than people judging her for a home birth and her stance on vaccines is that people don't think big dogs and babies can co-exist. 

I've written about Baby/Dog Introductions in the past, as well as my stance on why Pit Bulls (and other "tough" breeds) in two other posts: Pitbull Soapbox, where I outline my stance on Pits and Breed Bans; and about Breed Bans in Maine after a Waterville Police Chief wanted to Ban Pits because of frequent attacks -----one of which was when a child was "playing rough" with a Pit Bull, 3 weeks after that dog attacked another child in the home (why the parents let the kids play with the dog with a known bite history is beyond me....)

Julie has it right. They need to have rules in their home, management, and practice safe multi-species household common sense. Too bad more people aren't like Julie, because dogs will continue to get re-homed/put down because management, training, exercise needs, and common sense aren't there.
 
Just to illustrate, this isn't just Pits. Just a few days ago, I talked to a sweet man with a Corgi who bit his toddler in the head. Before you jump to the conclusion that this is a herding dog, and maybe it was a mean/viscous animal, here's what happened:

 -Dog was asleep under a table at Thanksgiving.
 -16 month old kid crawls under table, pulls on dogs face.
 -Dog wakes up, startled and bites at whatever is around.....the top of the kids head.

Who's fault is this?

Let me put it this way: If someone did that to me, I'd bite too. The options are to re-home the dog, or euthanasia. The dog is 7 years old, now unfairly marked for like with a "bite" history - you tell me the likelihood that this dog will get re-homed to someone outside the family. It's going to be much harder, and you have to have a connection of some sort to help this dog get into the right home, if one is available. Rescue groups won't take a dog with a history of bites - even if the circumstances are in the dogs favor (as listed above).

That story won't be on the 6 o'clock news. The family is heartbroken because they want to do what's best for the dog, but they can't keep the dog in the home. The options are rather limited.


This, sadly, happens all the time.

The keys are management, common sense, training, and knowing the limitations of the family dynamic. Not all dogs will be ok with kids, and if that's your dog, find a new home before baby comes, before the dog is stressed enough to bite. Otherwise, the onus is on the owner, no matter how big, or small, the dog is.

Shopping for The Dog (or People With Dogs)

It's that time of year again! Whether you shop from the comfort of your own home, or you're masochistic enough to go trudging behind a slow herd of angst filled teenagers at the mall, here some out of the box things for dogs, and their people, this holiday season.

You can't pay me enough.

For The Dog You Love; The Owner You Might Not Love So Much:


I used to work in a coffee shop. Every Thursday, around 8pm, a woman came in with a child who was about 4 years old. I thought for the longest time that this was her own son. She would usually buy him a steamed milk with raspberry syrup in it (it really is a good drink for a cold night). They would play a game of checkers, and leave.

One evening, she got him a large hot chocolate with a shot of espresso in it. I must have had a "WTF" thought bubble over my head - because she explained that this was her sisters kid, and they had a fight earlier that day, and this was the most creative way she could get back at her. She thanked me, left me a $5.00 tip, and went to play checkers with her nephew.

This toy is EXACTLY THAT. The dog will love it. The humans will hate it after a few trials. All will be right with the world.




For The Dog Who Is Too Smart For Their Own Good; People Who Love To Make Things Difficult For Their Dogs Because It's Fun To Watch.

Many trainers, like myself, like to recommend food dispensing toys or stuffable toys to keep high energy & smart dogs busy for longer periods of time. Additionally, if you have a dog that gulps down their food faster than a Mercedes can hit 60mph, then you might also want to investigate these options.


  Aikiou Dog Feeder: This feeder has 14 compartments. The middle circle spins, exposing one compartment at a time. The 4 "toes" are 2 compartments each, and the dog has to push the sliding mechanism to expose more food.

Aikiou

Kong Wobbler:  This is the dog version of the Punch Me Clown.  You unscrew the bottom of the toy, put kibble or treats inside, screw the bottom back on, and leave it on the floor. The dog has to push the toy with his nose, dispensing a kibble. We have a version of this at home and we use it all the time.

Kong Wobbler

Other Options:  SitStay.com has a great list on their website of other toys, including the Linkables that I've mentioned once or twice. Riverdog in Union Square also has a variety of affordable puzzle toys for dogs, so shop local if you can!


For Dogs Who Love To Hike; People Who Love Bags

Yesterday, I inquired about a bag, and several of you emailed me back or posted in the comments bags that work for you. There were three that stick out -

One is the Osprey, found at REI. It has lots of exterior pockets for soggy tennis balls, and easy access to treats/poop bags, and can hold a collapsible water bowl, water, a long line, and plenty of room for a light coat if you need an extra layer/don't want to wear around an extra layer. It looks small, lightweight, and really functional.

Osprey Talon 11

My dog walking friend, Jordan, recommended the Timbuk2 Messenger Bag (Medium).  Here is her review:

Just wanted to add that I've used my Timbuktu messenger bag with quite a bit of success on walks.  I have the medium size I think--bought it several years ago for a different job.  I'll often put an umbrella or extra shirt in the main pocket, and then use the smaller pockets for whatever else I need.  The inside is lined with a waterproof material, which is great.  There are also several spots where you can easily clip keys.  It has two snaps/buckles where the flap folds over the rest of the bag.  I've slid a Chuck It into this part before and never had a problem with it falling out.  I like that you can adjust the straps so that the bag rests anywhere you'd like on your side or back.  The fabric is really durable, and you can custom design on their website.  I adore Etsy too, but I do appreciate how well made the Timbuktu bags are.

I think that says it all, from someone who works outside with dogs all day long. 

Lastly, I found this gem, which is exactly what I was looking for as someone who just wants a small, compact bag to sling over the shoulder, have easy access to a chuck it, and have poop bags readily accessible on the chest on the strap (there is a hidden nook for plastic poop bags so my leash doesn't have to wear anything bulky anymore). I also hate loosing my keys, so the small key pocket looks like it is really handy, too. I think I'm going to purchase this bag, and I'll give a full review later.

The Urban Dog Walker Sling Pack

For: The Dog for Whom No Toy Goes Un-shredded; The Human Who Hates Cleaning Up The Fluff From Shredded Toys


The Pogo Plush from Premier is a god-send for anyone who has a "shredder". This is a toy within-a toy. BRILLIANT! And, the best part is when your dog DOES shred this toy, there is no stuffing anywhere that you have to clean up.

Essentially,  it's 2 toys in one, and the first one is MADE to be destroyed. How clever!

For The Fashionista; Dog Without A Collar

Found on Etsy: Seller "Davir"

If you love (or know someone who loves) stylish accessories for their pet, look locally, or through Etsy. Sure, the big companies have some great collars and leashes, but I'm a fan of browsing Etsy, or shopping local to find just a little something for my pets, when I can. Some of my favorites include Davir on Etsy, Beez Louise (I usually purchase at Durty Harry's in Charlestown), and Dublin Dog (they offer a collar that is "no stink" - waterproof for dogs who swim all summer, comfortable, and easy to clean. AMAZING product, and functional!)



For: The Breed Enthusiast; The Silly; The Bumper; The Walls.

I've known about Obey the Purebred for awhile, but I keep forgetting to mention them here.

 They have tons of different breeds, and it looks like they have expanded to cats as well



So, what do you think? What are some other items that are your gift list, or that you are gifting to others this year? Leave a message in the comments with your favorite gift for dogs, or dog people.

Help: Looking for Good Dog Walking Bag

We recently moved to an area with a LOT more green space than our previous apartment. In the old place, I'd keep a milk crate outside our front door with Sadie's toys, and use the Chuck It* at the end of the street. If we did go somewhere, I'd just pack it up in a back pack, take Sadie to a field, and have fun.

Seriously. Best outdoor toy made for dogs who love fetch, and human shoulders that can't throw.

But now, I'll take the 2 dogs for a walk around the neighborhood, stop at the green space, and play with Sadie and let Zep just sniff around, pee on things, and grunt. The problem is with two dogs, getting the toys out of the back pack off of my shoulder is cumbersome and awkward. I also have this moment of panic each time I take the bag off that I dropped a leash. It's a worse feeling than those nightmares where you think you lost all of your teeth, or show up to school naked.

I tried a tote bag for easy access, but I keep loosing my keys at the bottom of the bag. So I switched to one of the cheap drawstring backpacks, but the straps keep falling down over my shoulders, when the toy is in use.

So what do you use for walks/exercise with your dogs when you're out walking? Dog walkers, what do you use that is convenient, lightweight and durable? Ideally, something that would fit a Chuck It, water bottle/collapsible bowl, and has a place for slobbery tennis balls? I'd love some feedback!

Recall Redux

A student sent me this video yesterday, and I snorted seltzer out of my nose. I'm pretty sure the dog is named Jesus Christ.....

 

Humorous as the video is, it really illustrates why it's critical to have a reliable recall on your dog before letting them off leash. Dogs have 4 legs, we have 2. Guess who's going to win in a foot race every time? More importantly consider the following scenario: Your incredibly friendly, social dog is racing across a field to say hi to another dog - but that dog might not be too keen on your dogs exuberant greeting behavior, and may react with a growl, lunge, or bite.

Rule #1 of dog training: Your dog might be friendly, but that doesn't mean every other dog wants to be it's friend. Rule #2 of dog training: Have a solid recall on your dog.



How to Get A Reliable Recall: 
Here is a quick video on theory:

and how to use a long line to start recall training:

You can also take formal classes to work on recall, or join a club. Every basic manners class should have dedicate time to recall basics while working on other basic skills (sit, down, stay, don't eat that), and some classes are even designed specifically for working on one thing only- getting your dog to come when called.

And then, there is my favorite way to work recall and off leash skills with a dog: Sports. In most dog sports, (Obedience, Rally, Agility, Frisbee, etc), the dog has to be able to execute skills, such as "go this way", "do this thing", "come" and "stay" while off leash...and it looks REALLY cool!

The reason this works? It's fun for the handler, and for the dog. Mark demonstrates the basic principle of come when called while competing with his dog - YOU HAVE TO BE MORE EXCITING THAN ALL THOSE OTHER EXCITING THINGS, which isn't always easy to do, and he never yells at the dog for coming to him. "Fido, come here NOW" and getting a whack on the nose, or getting his nails clipped is a surefire way to insure your dog never comes when you call.

So in short: 
- Never let your dog off leash until you have a reliable recall on your dog.
- Use a long line to work longer distances.
- Find a way to be more exciting than a squirrel (highly motivating treats, frisbee, ball, whatever your dog likes)
 - If your dog doesn't come, make it easier for your dog to be successful (shorter distance/fewer distractions)
 - Keep practicing, join a club, take a class, or start dabbling in sports to make things interesting and fun!

Happy Thanksgiving, Everyone!

I can't in good conscience let you all go without a few tips for safe Thanksgiving practices. For those who are traveling, it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a pet first aid kit in the car (this is a good idea year round, but especially for traveling). The AVMA has a great list to get you started , but here are a few other things to put in your first aid kit:

Little Kid Socks - we use toddler socks as a wrap over gauze for our border collie. She often scrapes the bottom of her feet, and if she's bleeding, it can sometimes be a challenge to keep her still while we wrap her up. In a pinch, the sock can be folded and used as a small square to sop up blood, but we cover her scratches with Neosporin, gauze, the sock, and some athletic tape.

Neosporin (or some other ointment for scrapes/minor cuts, etc): As mentioned above, when we travel, we're often zooming through woods, or at least bombing through some back yards. This time of year, sticks, rocks, and acorns are EVERYWHERE, and sometimes dogs paws can get a little cut up.

Vet Wrap:  Vet wrap is a staple in our kit. Vet Wrap is a self-sticking bandage that goes over gauze and other padding to protect the gauze/injury site. In our case, Zep ripped out his dew claw (again) and is sporting non-stick gauze (for the injury site), thick padding gauze (for protection against bumping it into things, because lets face it - greyhounds are not graceful in a home environment), and some vet wrap over the padded gauze.

I've also used some of the vet wrap for my own hands - when working with puppies, and really mouthy adolescent dogs,sometimes there is bleeding on the joints of fingers or the tips of fingers/thumbs, where it's really hard to get a band-aid to stick. Vet wrap is really handy - put the band-aid on, then cover with vet wrap. Viola - band-aid stays put, and you can rock whatever color you like.

Phone Numbers & Important Paperwork: We don't like to think of our dogs as getting injured or sick when we travel, but it happens. My poor husband had to clean out his brand new Mini Cooper on its inaugural drive to Maine a few years ago after Sadie had .... an explosion of sorts. We were close enough to drive home and see our vet, but sometimes, that just isn't the case.

 Get the number of the nearest veterinarian AND the nearest 24 hour emergency clinic BEFORE YOU LEAVE ON YOUR TRIP. The time to look for those numbers isn't when you're in panic mode when your dog is bleeding, vomiting, or otherwise in bad shape.


 Keep a copy of your dogs rabies certificate with you: If your dog gets bit by a skunk, bat, another dog, or if your dog bites another dog/human on your trip, you will need to provide proof of vaccination. It's best to have the certificate - the rabies tag doesn't give the information required for medical professionals. They need the administering vet's information, the batch of the rabies vaccine, and the date given/date expires of the vaccine.  Trying to call your vet on a holiday weekend might be difficult, and if it happens on a Sunday, you won't be able to get the info you need. Take a  photo of the certificate with your iPhone, or keep a copy of it in your dogs travel bag.

 ....AND a current photo of your pet with you.  If your dog ends up running off, having a current photo with you will make it much easier to make signs to post around the neighborhood.


A Few More Sites: If you're interested in learning more about safety precautions while traveling, what human foods are dangerous for your dog (grapes, raisins, and onions to name a few), or killing time before you take off for a long holiday weekend - well, here you go:

 Human Foods NOT For Puppy Consumption This is perhaps the link I can recommend the most. It has a list of foods that might be toxic to your dog, and the number for Poison Control (a fee is incurred if you call Poison Control, but if your dog just ate a whole box of Russel Stauffers and washed it down with a glass of wine, you need to call them IMMEDIATELY: 888-426-4435).  There is another list that I like, and it includes some items not on the toxic list that I often get questions about. That list can be found right here.  They answer the question about what part of the Tomato is toxic to your dog, and the low-down on Garlic.

 Cartalk on F.I.D.O  I love the Car Talk Guys, Tom and Ray. They offer a full site on how to safely travel with your dogs, why they shouldn't be allowed to stick their heads out the window while driving, and what to do if your dog gets car sick.

For full list and lighthearted humor, check out I Has A Hotdog

For all of you out there that read - thank you :) If you travel, have a safe trip. If you're staying at home & cooking, I hope it's as stress-free as it can possibly be. And remember what this day is all about - giving thanks and reflection as we head into the doldrums of winter. Let those things that keep you going continue to keep your heart warm as we head into another New England Winter.

 And just for fun, a list of things I'm thankful for:

What? They're winning :)

Friends, Family, and Boston

A questionable sense of humor

NPR

The Dogs and their undying loyalty, even in the pouring rain.

....and pie. 

May you and yours have a fantastic Thanksgiving Holiday....or, Evacuation Day if you prefer.

Exercise Tip for Small Spaces

I frequently mention the Kyjen Tail Teaser (please, don't google "Tail Teaser" - lots of interesting things come up on image search.) I love this toy, and better yet, so does my high energy dog.

Here is a short video on how to use the toy in a small space, still work on great skills (such as Take It, Drop It and Tug), and exercise your dog! (Thanks to Peter at Riverdog in Union Square for introducing us to this wonderful toy!)

For more information on how to keep your dog tired, click here.
For more information on teaching your dog Drop it and Leave it, click here.
And for more information on Tug of War (is it good, is it bad, how to play, does it cause aggression?) click here.

Trainer, Behavior Consultant, Veterinary Behaviorist: What Is The Difference?

We are all specialists, and we overlap. But who will be right for your particular needs?

Often, when people call a trainer, they might be referred instead to a Behavior Consultant or a Veterinary Behaviorist. Sometimes, when you see your vet, they might recommend a trainer for an issue at home. The guy at the dog park suggests that you need a Behavioralist

(pssst: there is no such thing as a behavioralist).

Here is a quick breakdown as to what exactly a Trainer, Veterinary Behaviorist, and Behavior Consultant do, the overlap, how each can help, and ways to find the appropriate specialist for you!

Trainer

Some Associated Certifications - CPDT-KA & CPDT-KSA (Certification Council of Pet Dog Trainers);  ABC (Animal Behavior College);  CTP (Karen Pryor Academy)

K9 S.A.T's:
"Sit: Butt on ground.
Down: Lay on belly.
I think I got it.."

What trainers do: 
 Trainers are the teachers of the animal world, and the way they teach takes several different forms. They can teach group classes that works on the basics (sit, down, stay, recall), individual or private training in your home (home school!), and sports (such as agility, nose-work, K9 disk). They also can focus on formal obedience, rally, dock diving, and other activities in the form of a club, class, or organization.
 Trainers also focus on manners - if you have a door dasher or a counter surfer, you might call a trainer. If you have a dog that is reactive on a leash walk, looking to prepare for a new baby, or puppy manners, a trainer is the right specialist for you. 
 

Trainers are the Teachers of the dog world.
They focus on giving necessary skills to cope in a human environment.

Where they overlap with other specialists:   
 Trainers tend to work on tricks, manners, and sports - but dog trainers also work to affect emotion and behavior. Sometimes, a dog that is exhibiting bad manners might have an acute emotional response to leash walks, or being left alone. Many trainers can help with mild-moderate cases separation anxiety, leash reactivity, mild fear of strangers, and some cases of aggression.
 .

Where a trainer would not be appropriate: 
-Trainers are not veterinarians. Though trainers can suspect some medical problems, and even guess correctly what the problem is, they do not have the medical expertise to diagnose medical situations in an animal and have no business diagnosing ANY medical issue. A good trainer will say "this looks wrong. See your vet".
-When a behavior is so acute (a dog who shuts down in a classroom setting, a dog who aggresses at any new person in the home, severe separation anxiety), and the only way to help the animal is to work on emotional response, a Behavior Consultant or Veterinary Behaviorist might be more appropriate depending on the degree of the problem behavior.
 
Where a trainer WOULD be appropriate:
-Classroom work (puppy class; adolescent class; basic manners; specialized classes)
-Door dashing
-Normal "manners" issues
-Sports
-Reactivity to dogs, other people
-Mild/moderate fear issues.
-Referred by a Behavior Consultant or a Veterinary Behaviorist.


Behavior Consultant:

 Some Associated Certifications - ACAAB (Animal Behavior Society) ; CABC & CDBC (International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants); CCAB (International Association for the Study of Animal Behavior)

What Behavior Consultants do:
 Behavior Consultants have a scientific interest in why animals do what they do - and more specifically, why a behavior goes awry. They are the psychologists of the animal world.
 If a dog is having an acute emotional response to the mailman, is aggressing at people and has a bite history, has moderate-severe separation anxiety, and seems to be really having a difficult time emotionally with one (or more) parts of daily life, then a Behavior Consultant might be the way for you to go.

l

"Tell me about her"
"I don't know how I can cope. She's such a bitch!"
"Your mother?!?"
"No, my Weimaraner!"

Where they overlap with other specialists:
 Behavior Consultants are the bridge between the vets and the trainers, in that they use their training background to teach troubled dogs behaviors to build confidence, or teach dogs behaviors that are incompatible to the problem behavior they are exhibiting. Consultants also work very closely with Veterinary Behavior Specialists, and as a result, tend to have a working knowledge of  some medical conditions that can produce (or exacerbate) certain behaviors.
  A dog may act aggressively for either behavioral or medical reasons, or a combination of both. A good consultant would work closely with the client and the vet, to order medical tests that might give some insight to behavior problems, use both training and medical tools in order to help the animal cope. Not all behavior is medically related, but a good Behavior Consultant will be able to recognize certain red flags that might be an indicator that there is more going on to the behavior than meets the eye.

Where a Behavior Consultant would not be appropriate:
-Behavior Consultants are often very busy with the more challenging cases (such as separation anxiety, and long-term cases that need lots of maintenance) that many consultants don't teach basic manners classes or work with basic training questions.
-For the reasons specified above, Behavior Consultants often don't work with puppies, unless the puppy is exhibiting some pretty unusual behaviors (aggression, shutting down due to fear).
-Though Behavior Consultants work closely with Vets and Veterinary Behaviorists, they can not diagnose medical conditions, nor can they prescribe medicine to your pet (unless, they also have a medical degree).

Where a Behavior Consultant WOULD be appropriate: 
-Separation Anxiety
-Moderate to Severe cases of leash aggression/reactivity
-Mild-Moderate cases of suspected compulsive disorders
-If you suspect there might be a link between health and behavior
-Any dog with an existing bite history/you suspect your dog will bite
-Emotional / anxiety disorders or behaviors driving by intense fear/anxiety in your dog
-Referred by a Veterinary Behaviorist or a Trainer.



Veterinary Behaviorist:

Some Associated Certifications-  DACVB (Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists)

What Veterinary Behaviorists do:
 I can't say it any better than the Tufts Cummings School puts it, so I'll just quote from them:

Veterinary behaviorists are veterinarians with a special interest in animal behavior. Some veterinary behaviorists have completed residency programs after graduating from veterinary school and some have passed an exam given by the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists.

Diplomates of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (ACVB) have attained specialist status in veterinary behavior. They are doctors of veterinary medicine who received additional training in clinical veterinary behavior and satisfied the certification requirements of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists. These veterinary behaviorists are “board-certified” diplomats of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists.

Veterinary behaviorists are trained and licensed to diagnose and treat problems in animals, whether they are medical or behavioral. Being veterinarians, these behaviorists can diagnose medical problems that may be contributing to the animals’ behavioral problems. A veterinary behaviorist is also licensed to prescribe drugs and is familiar with psychotropic medications (tranquilizers and anti-depressants), their uses and side effects.

Where they overlap with other specialists:
 Veterinary Behaviorists have an interest in behavior problems (like the consultant) and they use some training techniques to modify behavior (like the trainer). They have the added benefit of a medical degree so they can most directly treat AND diagnose behavior problems (one stop shopping). The Veterinary Behaviorist does not always use medication to treat behavior problems, but they are the most qualified to see the links between behavior, nutrition and health, and can prescribe medication if necessary.They are often the person that is requested when a behavior is really out of the ordinary, medical issues are suspected/documented, or a last ditch effort before sadder, more drastic measures are taken.

  Veterinary Behavior Specialists are also commonly known as "the guys who deal with OCD". If you have a dog that has a behavior that is just extreme in some way (licks his leg to the point of bleeding or compulsion; chases light or shadows; chases his tail compulsively and can't be distracted; behaviors that look cute at first, but are REALLY problematic in real life), there is help. We in Massachusetts are perhaps the luckiest people when it comes to dog behavior problems - we have the foremost researcher and Veterinary Behaviorist, Nicholas Dodman BVMS, DACVB, DACVA (Tufts Cummings Behavior Clinic in Grafton, and you probably have seen him on Animal Planet) AND  Sheila Segurson D’Arpino  DVM, DACV (Animal Rescue League in Boston)

The dog in the above video is spinning compulsively, and can't seem to stop. Even while the other dogs bark and lunge while spinning, this dog is undeterred from this problem behavior. If you see compulsive type behaviors, see a vet behavior specialist.

There are only about 60 Veterinary Behavior Specialists available. That being said, if you are not lucky enough to live near a specialist, some (like Dr. Dodman) partake in a Vet Fax program, where your vet will work with a behavior specialist in your region to get you the help you require. As a result of being a rare bird, and a very specialized niche, Vet Behavior Specialists are not cheap - but if you have a real problem behavior, or this is your last ditch effort to make things work, their experience is invaluable.


Where a Veterinary Behaviorist would not be appropriate:
-If you have a dog who is exuberantly jumping up on you at home, or you have a dog that needs a puppy class, see a trainer.
-If you need help with recalling your dog in distracting situations, call a trainer.
-If you need help with a leash aggressive dog that isn't globally fearful, talk with a Trainer or a Behavior Consultant.

Where a Veterinary Behaviorist WOULD be appropriate:
-Compulsive Disorders/Suspected Compulsive disorders that can cause harm to the animal or others & can not be redirected.
-Behaviors that are extreme or excessive (severe separation anxiety, where a dog is causing himself physical harm due to anxiety; )
-Behaviors that are likely related to health or a medical situation.
- "The behavior was sudden, and went away as if nothing happened. It was like a light switch."
-Referred by a Trainer, your regular Vet, or a Behavior Consultant.

I hope this helps you figure out what each specialist does, how we overlap (there is quite a bit of overlap!) and what specialist might help you with your specific needs. To get you started, here are some sites to help you find a qualified professional in your area:


If you need help finding a trainer, check out the CCPDT Trainer Search.
If you need help finding a behavior consultant, check out the IAABC Behavior Consultant Search
If you need help finding a board certified veterinary behaviorist, check out the DACVB list.

Introducing Baby to Existing Pets

To head off any questions - no, we're not expecting. BUT a few of my friends are, and many of my clients are. I recently ran a 1 hour seminar at Durty Harry's in Charlestown, and figured I could help more people by writing about it. Plus, it was fun getting photos from all who submitted!

Olivia and "Finn" contemplate the rainy day. (Photo taken by Jennifer Brown Castro)

In the old days, Mommy + Daddy = Baby.  Down the road, they would get the kid a puppy for their 10th birthday. Now, more couples are opting for the pets first, and then bringing the baby into the fold. If you are a parent with dogs, cats, or even iguanas, there are some key steps to take to help you integrate everyone safely. 
 
Before Baby Comes:
First, download the FREE book from the American Humane Association that helps parents figure out the best way to acclimate existing pets with new babies. I love this book so much because it gives great tips in general, like how to read animal body language correctly. Plus, did I mention it's FREE?

My friend "Culley" with baby Nolan. (Photo by Melissa Miles)

Speaking of Free - listen to the podcast "How to Prepare Your Dog for a New Baby" from fellow CPDT-KA, Jolanta Benal. If you aren't on the podcast wagon, she has a transcript of the podcast available for reading. Also, subscribe to her podcast - she has 5-7 minute tips for all aspects of having a dog. I love getting her podcast every week, and usually learn something new, or see things a little differently after listening.

Get your pets acclimated the noises and sounds that they would likely hear. Get a CD or play a Youtube Video of a Crying Baby and play it on low. Give your pet plenty of praise while this occurs. If your animal is freaking out, you have the volume on too high or the animal too close to the sound.

If you have dogs, it's really advantageous to teach them "Out" - meaning "get out of this room". This is really helpful if you're trying to change the babies dirty diaper, and the dog wants to "help" you clean it up. Start working on "Out" 3-4 months before the baby comes. Teaching new commands the day the baby comes home is not going to work in your favor!
Additionally, teaching a dog to Leave It (meaning, don't pick up that rattle, it's for the baby!) and Drop It (the dog ignored leave it and now he has to spit it out) are going to be crucial when all the baby's stuff laying around. Here are some quick videos to teach Leave It and Drop It. 

BUM! (photo taken by Yana Carlson of Walk-a-Pup in Salem MA)

Baby is Coming! EEK!:
Some of my clients have their dog walker on speed dial, so when the baby decided it was coming out that day, the arrangements were already made: the dog walker came for the dog, and dropped it off a few days after the baby had arrived at home. This gave the new parents a couple days to acclimate to parenthood, while the dog was off partying with some playmates.

If that isn't an option, make sure you have a trusted friend, neighbor or co-worker that can attend to your pets while you're gone. Make sure this is set up in advance, that they have a key to get in, and have been briefed ahead of time on how to take care of the pets (food, medicine, favorite toys, etc).

Send a blanket or article of clothing home from the hospital with the new baby's scent on it the day before the baby comes home. It doesn't just smell like baby - it also smells like hospital. That antiseptic scent that you, your baby, and anyone coming back from the hospital with you, will also be donning this interesting odor. 

BJ blogs about her life with twins in Rural Maine. If you're expecting, I recommend her blog, TwinkieMom.

Baby Is Home! YAY!:
First rule of Pets and Babies Club: NEVER leave pets and babies alone unsupervised. Ever.
Second rule of Pets and Babies Club: NEVER leave pets and babies alone unsupervised. Ever.
Often, a parent will leave the baby unattended for just a few minutes while they hop in the shower or use the rest room. Make sure the pets are not able to get to the baby. It only takes a second, especially when baby is sitting on a valuable space, like a bed, that used to be free for the pet to use before baby came. The best dogs and the most well behaved cats are still animals, and your squeaking, crying baby, when unattended, might look like an easy target. Gate the dogs in another room, leave the baby in a crib, and make sure the cats (or pet Ball Python!) are totally secure in another area of the house without access to the baby, EVEN FOR A MINUTE. 

"Alina" decides she will help baby Aiden with his birthday pancakes. (Photo taken by my friend, Lee Pennington)

 
In the same vein, you'll be excited to have everyone meet and be friends - but never, ever force your pet to "say hello" to the new baby. Let things happen on their own time, and with supervision.

One last thing to consider: you're not sleeping as much, and neither is your pet. You'll be stressed out, and your pet will be stressed out. Sign your dog up for doggy daycare, or get a dog walker for the middle of the day- you'll be busy with the baby, and your dog will be missing out on a lot of attention he was used to getting before. Puzzle Toys to eat breakfast and dinner can also help dogs, and some cats, stay busy. Have a little one-on-one time with the pet each day to walk, fetch, brush, or just hang out. It will make a world of difference to your animal who is going through an adjustment period, too. 


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Dog trainer Melissa McCue-McGrath works out of Somerville MA and surrounding towns. If you have an idea or suggestion for the website, feel free to leave it in the comment section!