Leah Tremble, CPDT-KA, , my dear friend & agility teacher extraordinaire, will be joining me at the Cambridge Armory starting on Saturday, 6/1.
She'll be teaching Agility for fun classes - and I'll be teaching Frisbee & taking private clients.
If interested in these classes, contact us!
Leah/Agility: BlueSkiesAheadTraining@gmail.com
Melissa/Frisbee & Private Training options: Muttstuff@gmail.com
If you have questions, email us or stop by the Training Table at the Somerville Spring Fling!
-M3
5.17.2013
5.16.2013
Free Event: Spring Fling in Somerville
I'll be giving a couple of presentations on how to introduce kids to dogs, and hanging out with my dear friend Leah Tremble, CPDT-KA in the Ask The Trainer booth. If you have questions about training or need a little help, we'll be there from 10-2. Leah will also be bringing some basic agility equipment if you'd like to try it out with your pup!
Oh, did I mention there is a Beer Garden?
So come on down, face painting and activities for kids, Beer Garden and events for adults, and of course, plenty of cookies for your pup!
See you there!
- M3
2.06.2013
Salon: In Defense Of The Pit Bull
A few weeks ago, I wrote a letter to Mayor Menino of Boston, and had written similar emails to my state senator (Jehlen) and the author of Breed Specific Legislation supported by Menino, State Senator Mike Rush. Of the three, I have only heard back from Senator Jehlen, who was instrumental in striking down BSL in the state a few months ago. Now, due to comments by Menino and legislation posted by Senator Rush, it's a hot button topic in Massachusetts all over again.
All of my ramblings to the Senators and the Mayor of Boston can basically can be summed up perfectly by Joshua Holland, and can be found here.
In response to the video of Menino's comments, I'd like to know why there was a loose dog, who the dog belonged to, and what/if the boy was doing anything to instigate the dog. The boy (luckily) wasn't seriously hurt, which leads me to think that there is more to this story.
Instead of banning a breed, I like the idea of Doggy Court (which has been employed in California) where dog owners can state their case. Seriously dangerous dogs can be euthanized, while other dogs can be instructed to wear a muzzle when out, get training, and contained when company is over. Owners get tickets and pay fines for failure to comply with existing laws. The problem is we have laws that aren't being enforced, and the idea of Animal Court can certainly address that issue.
It seems to me the dog was off leash, or escaped. Being able to recall the dog, or not have it off leash to begin with would have saved both the boy and the cat in the story above, so this is a leash law issue or a training issue - not a breed issue.
All of my ramblings to the Senators and the Mayor of Boston can basically can be summed up perfectly by Joshua Holland, and can be found here.
In response to the video of Menino's comments, I'd like to know why there was a loose dog, who the dog belonged to, and what/if the boy was doing anything to instigate the dog. The boy (luckily) wasn't seriously hurt, which leads me to think that there is more to this story.
Instead of banning a breed, I like the idea of Doggy Court (which has been employed in California) where dog owners can state their case. Seriously dangerous dogs can be euthanized, while other dogs can be instructed to wear a muzzle when out, get training, and contained when company is over. Owners get tickets and pay fines for failure to comply with existing laws. The problem is we have laws that aren't being enforced, and the idea of Animal Court can certainly address that issue.
It seems to me the dog was off leash, or escaped. Being able to recall the dog, or not have it off leash to begin with would have saved both the boy and the cat in the story above, so this is a leash law issue or a training issue - not a breed issue.
1.23.2013
Loose Leash Walking Equipment: Head Collars
It's no secret that I'm a big fan of head collars. Not all trainers are, but these are a tool that I really advocate for. They are not for every handler, they are not for every dog - but in all honesty, nothing is right for every handler or every dog. For instance, our Border Collie, Sadie, wears her head collar every time we go out, even for a quick pee break. Our Greyhound is perfectly fine with just his standard issue collar.
Why Use a Head Collar?
I grew up in Maine where we had plenty of cows, and I rode horses since I was a wee little one. Both of these animals are moved most easily by the use of a head collar, or halter. It's much easier to convince a 1,600 pound horse to move with you when you have it by the nose.
Dogs are the only animal we expect to walk perfectly nicely by a wrapping something around its neck. We don't typically do that with sheep, horses, cows, or even cats.
We've come a long way. Just a few years ago, most people thought the head collar was a muzzle. While some designs do have that function built in, predominantly the head collar is just that: a type of equipment designed to help you walk your excited/giant pulling dog without tearing your rotator cuff, or cause injury to a dogs trachea. Most people now understand that it's a tool to walk an excited dog safely.
A note of caution regarding ANY head collar: Do not use these head pieces with anything other than a 4-6' leash. If you are doing long line recalls or walk your dog on a retractable leash, do not use a head collar. If your dog takes off at speed and comes to a sudden stop , their head can twist causing spraining, muscle pulls, or worse. If you are prone to "leash popping" your dog, a head collar might not be appropriate for you. As with any device, it might not be appropriate for all dogs and handlers.
Also, head collars can take a little bit of time to get used to, and some dogs never adjust to these pieces. Generally, if fitted properly, and if the dog is trained/conditioned to wear the head collar properly, you can get great results. If you just toss the head collar on a fearful dog and expect it to go amazingly, you might be in for a bad experience. Here is a great video with Jean Donaldson on how to get a dog to think wearing a head collar is a great idea, and how to condition a dog to love the head piece:
That being said, this is my preferred method of walking strong pullers, reactive or aggressive dogs, and exuberant jumpers. This is a fantastic alternative to the choke chains of yesteryear and prong collars.
Types of Head Collars:
Gentle Leader
The Gentle Leader is a head piece made by Premier. This is the head collar most people know by name. As Kleenex is to tissue, Gentle Leader is to head collars. However, this is my least favorite.
Pros:
-Commercially available at most box-store pet shopping centers
-Very adjustable
-Variety of colors
Cons:
-Not appropriate for short-snout dogs, such as the Pug, Old English Bulldog, and other dogs who are brachycephalic..
-No extra padding on the bridge of the nose, so some dogs might chafe.
-No safety strap (so you should use a second leash connected to the dogs collar OR make your own safety strap modeled after some of the other brands.) If the dog escapes, you are left holding the head piece and leash as your dog runs off.
-No extra side straps for stability.
-Since this is such a simple design, you have to have the head piece super-snug to prevent the dog from escaping out of the head collar, which can be uncomfortable.
Snoot Loop
This product is the go-to head halter for dogs that have short snouts, or who don't fit the other head pieces very well. Trainers have been recommending this piece for years, but they are not usually found in retail stores.
Pros:
-This halter is SUPER adjustable. It also has an additional strap that crosses over the dogs forehead for short snouted dogs.
-Really difficult for dogs to escape from when adjusted properly.
-Multiple points of adjustment, making this the least likely to chafe of all the brands mentioned here, and the hardest to escape from.
-There is a collar attached as part of the design (you can see a thicker strap on the dog above, behind his ears). This also is a safety feature, so if your dog DOES escape, you still have your dog.
-Does have a muzzle feature if the dog lunges, but unless you pull on this halter in a very specific way, it will function as a walking device and not a muzzle.
Cons:
-Your dog looks like Hannibal Lecter
-Though it has multiple points of adjustment, it can be hard to adjust initially.
-Doesn't fit really small dogs, such as mini poodles - you'd have to use the Halti for that.
-Not commercially available - have to find one online.
Halti:
This head piece is the best of all worlds: affordable, easy to fit, easy to adjust and easy to put on. However, if you have a dog with a short snout or a dog that needs something a little more sturdy, you might need a different head collar.
Pros:
-Commercially available
-Padding over the nose strap, lessening the likelihood of chafing
-Built in safety strap that attaches back to the dogs collar. In the event the dog escapes from the head piece, you still have your dog connected by the collar to the leash.
-Convenient as the Gentle Leader, but more sturdy.
-Has a minor muzzle option for dogs who lunge aggressively, but not a muzzle substitute for dogs that really need it.
Cons:
-Not as adjustable as the Snoot Loop, so it might be hard to find the perfect size for your particular dog.
-Sizing is rather generous. If you have a big dog for the breed, use the manufacturers recommendation. However, if you have a smaller dog for breed standard, or a female, you might actually want to get the size below the recommendation on the back of the package.
-Some dogs can still chafe/nose piece might ride up and irritate the dogs eyes.
-Not appropriate for dogs with a short snout
Canny Collar:
Pros:
-Connects behind the dogs head to the leash, so the leash shouldn't get wrapped under the dogs leg or be chewed on as you walk.
-Can't twist the dogs neck because of leash placement
-Easy to put on
-Safety strap/additional collar like the Snoot Loop
Cons:
-Harder to get than the Gentle Leader or Halti, but you can purchase online.
-Dogs can back out of the snout loop, but you still have your dog by the collar if fitted correctly.
-Not appropriate for dogs with a short snout.
As with any walking equipment, talk with your trainer to see what equipment might be most appropriate for you and your dog specifically. Maybe you don't need a head collar - you might only need a harness designed to assist with pulling behaviors. Or maybe your dog just needs to work on exercises designed to teach proper leash skills. When in doubt, ask your trainer.
Good Luck and Happy Walking!
-M3
 |
| Sadie with her Halti head collar |
I grew up in Maine where we had plenty of cows, and I rode horses since I was a wee little one. Both of these animals are moved most easily by the use of a head collar, or halter. It's much easier to convince a 1,600 pound horse to move with you when you have it by the nose.
Dogs are the only animal we expect to walk perfectly nicely by a wrapping something around its neck. We don't typically do that with sheep, horses, cows, or even cats.
We've come a long way. Just a few years ago, most people thought the head collar was a muzzle. While some designs do have that function built in, predominantly the head collar is just that: a type of equipment designed to help you walk your excited/giant pulling dog without tearing your rotator cuff, or cause injury to a dogs trachea. Most people now understand that it's a tool to walk an excited dog safely.
A note of caution regarding ANY head collar: Do not use these head pieces with anything other than a 4-6' leash. If you are doing long line recalls or walk your dog on a retractable leash, do not use a head collar. If your dog takes off at speed and comes to a sudden stop , their head can twist causing spraining, muscle pulls, or worse. If you are prone to "leash popping" your dog, a head collar might not be appropriate for you. As with any device, it might not be appropriate for all dogs and handlers.
Also, head collars can take a little bit of time to get used to, and some dogs never adjust to these pieces. Generally, if fitted properly, and if the dog is trained/conditioned to wear the head collar properly, you can get great results. If you just toss the head collar on a fearful dog and expect it to go amazingly, you might be in for a bad experience. Here is a great video with Jean Donaldson on how to get a dog to think wearing a head collar is a great idea, and how to condition a dog to love the head piece:
That being said, this is my preferred method of walking strong pullers, reactive or aggressive dogs, and exuberant jumpers. This is a fantastic alternative to the choke chains of yesteryear and prong collars.
Types of Head Collars:
Gentle Leader
The Gentle Leader is a head piece made by Premier. This is the head collar most people know by name. As Kleenex is to tissue, Gentle Leader is to head collars. However, this is my least favorite.
 |
| The Gentle Leader. |
-Commercially available at most box-store pet shopping centers
-Very adjustable
-Variety of colors
Cons:
-Not appropriate for short-snout dogs, such as the Pug, Old English Bulldog, and other dogs who are brachycephalic..
-No extra padding on the bridge of the nose, so some dogs might chafe.
-No safety strap (so you should use a second leash connected to the dogs collar OR make your own safety strap modeled after some of the other brands.) If the dog escapes, you are left holding the head piece and leash as your dog runs off.
-No extra side straps for stability.
-Since this is such a simple design, you have to have the head piece super-snug to prevent the dog from escaping out of the head collar, which can be uncomfortable.
Snoot Loop
This product is the go-to head halter for dogs that have short snouts, or who don't fit the other head pieces very well. Trainers have been recommending this piece for years, but they are not usually found in retail stores.
 |
| Snoot Loop |
Pros:
-This halter is SUPER adjustable. It also has an additional strap that crosses over the dogs forehead for short snouted dogs.
-Really difficult for dogs to escape from when adjusted properly.
-Multiple points of adjustment, making this the least likely to chafe of all the brands mentioned here, and the hardest to escape from.
-There is a collar attached as part of the design (you can see a thicker strap on the dog above, behind his ears). This also is a safety feature, so if your dog DOES escape, you still have your dog.
-Does have a muzzle feature if the dog lunges, but unless you pull on this halter in a very specific way, it will function as a walking device and not a muzzle.
Cons:
-Your dog looks like Hannibal Lecter
-Doesn't fit really small dogs, such as mini poodles - you'd have to use the Halti for that.
-Not commercially available - have to find one online.
Halti:
This head piece is the best of all worlds: affordable, easy to fit, easy to adjust and easy to put on. However, if you have a dog with a short snout or a dog that needs something a little more sturdy, you might need a different head collar.
 |
| Halti |
Pros:
-Commercially available
-Padding over the nose strap, lessening the likelihood of chafing
-Built in safety strap that attaches back to the dogs collar. In the event the dog escapes from the head piece, you still have your dog connected by the collar to the leash.
-Convenient as the Gentle Leader, but more sturdy.
-Has a minor muzzle option for dogs who lunge aggressively, but not a muzzle substitute for dogs that really need it.
Cons:
-Not as adjustable as the Snoot Loop, so it might be hard to find the perfect size for your particular dog.
-Sizing is rather generous. If you have a big dog for the breed, use the manufacturers recommendation. However, if you have a smaller dog for breed standard, or a female, you might actually want to get the size below the recommendation on the back of the package.
-Some dogs can still chafe/nose piece might ride up and irritate the dogs eyes.
-Not appropriate for dogs with a short snout
Canny Collar:
 |
| Canny Collar |
-Connects behind the dogs head to the leash, so the leash shouldn't get wrapped under the dogs leg or be chewed on as you walk.
-Can't twist the dogs neck because of leash placement
-Easy to put on
-Safety strap/additional collar like the Snoot Loop
Cons:
-Harder to get than the Gentle Leader or Halti, but you can purchase online.
-Dogs can back out of the snout loop, but you still have your dog by the collar if fitted correctly.
-Not appropriate for dogs with a short snout.
As with any walking equipment, talk with your trainer to see what equipment might be most appropriate for you and your dog specifically. Maybe you don't need a head collar - you might only need a harness designed to assist with pulling behaviors. Or maybe your dog just needs to work on exercises designed to teach proper leash skills. When in doubt, ask your trainer.
Good Luck and Happy Walking!
-M3
1.22.2013
Dear Mayor Menino: Breed Specific Legislation
This is a letter to the Mayor of Boston in response to SD 1247, a bill proposed by State Senator Mike Rush, that will open the door to allow breed bans and mandatory muzzling of specific breeds. Please help by writing or calling your State Rep, and in a courteous manner, ask that they do not support this bill.
I sent a similar letter to Senator Rush.
Also, I really do wish to meet with the mayor, or any other official that would like to make their constituents safer, and there are many ways to do so without breed bans. Ask any mail carrier or dog trainer - it's not just Pits that aggressively bark and bite! Please share my letter, or write your own if you feel so inspired.
-M3
___________________________
Greetings, Mr. Mayor!
I'm a Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA) in the Boston area, teach in Charlestown, and am really concerned about the proposed Breed Specific Legislation (BSL) regarding muzzling Pit Bulls. Here's where I'm concerned.
In a Fox 25 interview, you stated that there is "something in them that is vicious". I would like to formally invite you to one of my classes, or even a public training space, so you can see with your own eyes where a blanketed statement such as that can be hurtful - not just to dogs that are considered bully breeds, but to dogs that really do need muzzles.
In the 10 years I've been teaching, I have witnessed several dog fights. In one fight in particular, a beautiful Irish Setter charged at a bully breed (Mastiff/Staffordshire Terrier cross, which was labeled as a "Pit Mix”). The Irish Setter got off of his leash, charged at the Pit, and lunged with his teeth bared. The Pit turned his head away, and the Setter continued to instigate a fight. Eventually, the Setter lunged with his teeth bared at the Pits neck. The Setter turned and bit his owner when the owner tried to break up the fight. The entire time, the Pit just stood there, tail tucked, and took the assault.
In this instance, who should have been muzzled? My professional opinion would state the Setter, not this particular bully breed.
When I was attacked by the family Husky growing up (I still have the scars up and down my arm 30 years later), my dad dealt with that one particular dog, not the other 10 we used for dog sledding.
Lastly, I want to bring your attention to a young boy who took my Frisbee class with his dog. This dog is the quintessential Pit Bull type dog. Short, black, stocky, well muscled, and a boxy head. This boy had a form of Autism and couldn't focus. His mom got him a dog. This dog did EVERYTHING the boy asked, and the boy started to engage with the dog in a way that he hadn't engaged with anyone or anything before. This Staffordshire Terrier (what most people call Pit Bulls) was athletic, smart, sweet, and one of the best Frisbee Dogs I've ever seen. To see this boy light up when he worked with his dog was one of the highlights of my career. This family was told the dog was a Black Lab/Boxer mix by the rescue group. They had to continue to say that on all of their paperwork for the dog so their homeowners insurance did not go up. If they said they had a Staffordshire Terrier, even as awesome as this dog is, they would not be able to afford the insurance. This dog changed this boys life for the better, and this is a model citizen dog.
My Border Collie could not pass the Canine Good Citizen test due to dog-dog aggression. Both dogs mentioned above absolutely could pass that test on any given day.
Please reconsider your stance on BSL. Take each dog as an individual and not brush all dogs with a certain aesthetic with a broad stroke. By doing so, you put undue stigmas on the good dogs while taking the focus away from educating the public on how to approach dogs, how to live with dogs, and encourage the public to muzzle dogs that need to be muzzled (like an aggressive Irish Setter).
If you'd like to meet with me in a classroom so you can meet some dogs that (I promise) are of sound mind and well socialized, of all breeds, including some from the Bully Breed category, email me: mmccue@gmail.com. If you still feel that they are bullies after educating yourself, after reading this and getting around these dogs in person (you can make it a press event, I'd welcome cameras if you like), then I'll get off of my soapbox quietly. I implore you to have an event with animal behavior specialists, and professionals in the community that deal with these dogs every day. Do what you can first to educate yourself before going forward with this legislation. I feel that you’ll find there are other avenues to take to protect the citizens of Boston that are more effective and efficient - but you have to talk to the professionals in the community. I’d be happy to lead this effort if you’d let me.
You're the mayor of a big city, and I'd feel better if you got around these dogs in a safe environment, learned about dog body language, and how to change the city of Boston for the better regarding dogs that are actually vicious, instead of legislating against an entire, unenforceable group. Keep in mind that Pit Bulls aren't a breed, but a look of dog, so it will be really hard to enforce. Would you ban just the Staffordshire Terrier and the American Pitbull Terrier or would you also include the American Bulldog, Bull Mastiffs, Swiss Mountain Dogs - who have a similarly boxy head? To emphasize how hard this legislation would be to enforce, try to find the one Pit Bull in this line up.
There are so many things that we can do to make our cities safer and more friendly to animals and humans alike. You can lead the nation on this, but please reconsider BSL, and meet with animal professionals. We have great ideas that can be enforced and can make our city safer, but you have to talk with us instead of legislate broadly.
Thank you for your time.
Melissa McCue-McGrath, CPDT-KA
muttstuff.blogspot.com
I sent a similar letter to Senator Rush.
Also, I really do wish to meet with the mayor, or any other official that would like to make their constituents safer, and there are many ways to do so without breed bans. Ask any mail carrier or dog trainer - it's not just Pits that aggressively bark and bite! Please share my letter, or write your own if you feel so inspired.
-M3
___________________________
Greetings, Mr. Mayor!
I'm a Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT-KA) in the Boston area, teach in Charlestown, and am really concerned about the proposed Breed Specific Legislation (BSL) regarding muzzling Pit Bulls. Here's where I'm concerned.
In a Fox 25 interview, you stated that there is "something in them that is vicious". I would like to formally invite you to one of my classes, or even a public training space, so you can see with your own eyes where a blanketed statement such as that can be hurtful - not just to dogs that are considered bully breeds, but to dogs that really do need muzzles.
In the 10 years I've been teaching, I have witnessed several dog fights. In one fight in particular, a beautiful Irish Setter charged at a bully breed (Mastiff/Staffordshire Terrier cross, which was labeled as a "Pit Mix”). The Irish Setter got off of his leash, charged at the Pit, and lunged with his teeth bared. The Pit turned his head away, and the Setter continued to instigate a fight. Eventually, the Setter lunged with his teeth bared at the Pits neck. The Setter turned and bit his owner when the owner tried to break up the fight. The entire time, the Pit just stood there, tail tucked, and took the assault.
In this instance, who should have been muzzled? My professional opinion would state the Setter, not this particular bully breed.
When I was attacked by the family Husky growing up (I still have the scars up and down my arm 30 years later), my dad dealt with that one particular dog, not the other 10 we used for dog sledding.
Lastly, I want to bring your attention to a young boy who took my Frisbee class with his dog. This dog is the quintessential Pit Bull type dog. Short, black, stocky, well muscled, and a boxy head. This boy had a form of Autism and couldn't focus. His mom got him a dog. This dog did EVERYTHING the boy asked, and the boy started to engage with the dog in a way that he hadn't engaged with anyone or anything before. This Staffordshire Terrier (what most people call Pit Bulls) was athletic, smart, sweet, and one of the best Frisbee Dogs I've ever seen. To see this boy light up when he worked with his dog was one of the highlights of my career. This family was told the dog was a Black Lab/Boxer mix by the rescue group. They had to continue to say that on all of their paperwork for the dog so their homeowners insurance did not go up. If they said they had a Staffordshire Terrier, even as awesome as this dog is, they would not be able to afford the insurance. This dog changed this boys life for the better, and this is a model citizen dog.
My Border Collie could not pass the Canine Good Citizen test due to dog-dog aggression. Both dogs mentioned above absolutely could pass that test on any given day.
Please reconsider your stance on BSL. Take each dog as an individual and not brush all dogs with a certain aesthetic with a broad stroke. By doing so, you put undue stigmas on the good dogs while taking the focus away from educating the public on how to approach dogs, how to live with dogs, and encourage the public to muzzle dogs that need to be muzzled (like an aggressive Irish Setter).
If you'd like to meet with me in a classroom so you can meet some dogs that (I promise) are of sound mind and well socialized, of all breeds, including some from the Bully Breed category, email me: mmccue@gmail.com. If you still feel that they are bullies after educating yourself, after reading this and getting around these dogs in person (you can make it a press event, I'd welcome cameras if you like), then I'll get off of my soapbox quietly. I implore you to have an event with animal behavior specialists, and professionals in the community that deal with these dogs every day. Do what you can first to educate yourself before going forward with this legislation. I feel that you’ll find there are other avenues to take to protect the citizens of Boston that are more effective and efficient - but you have to talk to the professionals in the community. I’d be happy to lead this effort if you’d let me.
You're the mayor of a big city, and I'd feel better if you got around these dogs in a safe environment, learned about dog body language, and how to change the city of Boston for the better regarding dogs that are actually vicious, instead of legislating against an entire, unenforceable group. Keep in mind that Pit Bulls aren't a breed, but a look of dog, so it will be really hard to enforce. Would you ban just the Staffordshire Terrier and the American Pitbull Terrier or would you also include the American Bulldog, Bull Mastiffs, Swiss Mountain Dogs - who have a similarly boxy head? To emphasize how hard this legislation would be to enforce, try to find the one Pit Bull in this line up.
There are so many things that we can do to make our cities safer and more friendly to animals and humans alike. You can lead the nation on this, but please reconsider BSL, and meet with animal professionals. We have great ideas that can be enforced and can make our city safer, but you have to talk with us instead of legislate broadly.
Thank you for your time.
Melissa McCue-McGrath, CPDT-KA
muttstuff.blogspot.com
9.06.2012
Loose Leash Walking Equipment: Harnesses
In every single class I teach, I have at least one person show up to class with their 20 pound dog straining to get into my classroom. The owner is invariably trailing behind, and in a panicky voice utters "I hope we cover Loose Leash Walking!"
Without fail, this dog is in a harness that clips to the back.
.jpg)
This harness clips to the back, is made of nylon, and is REALLY comfortable -
especially if the dog enjoys pulling on a leash
Now, compare the above harness, which clips to the back of the dog, stretchy, padded in all the right places to the harnesses in the below photograph, which clip to the back of the dog, are stretchy, and padded in all the right places.
"Wheeee! Pulling is FUN!"
I'm going write about other walking devices in follow up posts (Harnesses, Head Collars, Aversive Collars, and Other Training Tools) so you can hopefully find the right walking/training device for you and your pup.
Harnesses:
There are thousands of harnesses to chose from - some of them stating that they are "No Pull", some are nylon and stretchy, and many are just damned cute. Some are step-in harnesses, and some slide over the head of the dog. The possibilies are endless!
Puppia Harness
Rogz-Dogz Utility Harness
If, however, walking your dog feels like a form of medieval torture, you might wish to try a harness designed to take some of the ease out of the pull (and your rotator cuff).
Sensation Harness. Available at some boutiques and online. Fits better on adolescent and skinnier chested dogs than the more commercially available Easy Walk.
Easy Walk Harness. More commercially available than the Sensation, not appropriate for "skinny" dogs . Better for dogs with a broader chest.
Sporn No-Pull Mesh Harness: Pulls the front legs up when the dog pulls. Some dogs are sensitive to the pressure put on the legs, and it can chafe.
I'm a huge fan of the Sense-ation Harness. This harness is a front clip design, where the leash attaches to the chest of the dog instead of on the back. When the dog pulls, his momentum is stopped. I used a harness like this on our Border Collie with fantastic success. Some other examples include the Easy Walk Harness (from our friends at Premier, and clips to the chest) , and the Sporn Harness (clips to the back, pulls dogs front legs off the ground when they pull).
It's important to note that some dogs suddenly and miraculously walk much better when on a harness. However, most dogs will do well with this equipment as a device to help TRAIN the dog not to pull. There are several humane methods to teach your dog not to pull. This is one of my favorite methods for real life training outside.
Pros:
-The leash attaches to a ring on the back or chest of the dog, leaving the esophagus, airway, and neck vertebrae at minimal risk of injury.
-For dogs with spinal injuries or other medical conditions, this is a good alternative for walking with a collar around the neck.
-Some sports or work require the dog to be in a harness (Skijoring, Tracking, or Search and Rescue work to name a few), and all of these harnesses encourage pulling. This is a "pro" if you are engaged in an activity/sport where you need the dog to pull.
-Many of the Chest Clip harnesses (like Sensation and Easy Walk) slide comfortably over the head of the dog - no more pulling the harness through each of the front legs.
Cons:
-If you have the wrong harness, it can encourage pulling behaviors, making it difficult to walk your dog.
-Step-In Harnesses are inconvenient to get on and off of a dog.
-Can cause chafing in some dogs.
Stay tuned for more on walking devices!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Melissa McCue-McGrath, CPDT-KA is a certified dog trainer in Somerville, MA and can be found teaching dogs through the Boston/North area.
6.01.2012
Leash Your Dog: Redux
I recently wrote an article for the Somerville Patch regarding an experience I had with our two dogs earlier this week, and the importance of leash laws in the city. It's a throwback to my original Leash Your Dog post, but worth hammering home again.
-M3
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Our Greyhound is 80 pounds, and is the sweetest thing on four feet. Our Border Collie, Sadie, has what I call "trust issues". As a general rule, we let people know as they approach with their dogs that she's not friendly with dogs, comment on how cute their pet is, and continue on our walk. Most owners are happy that we mention it, and everyone is safe.
Today, we rounded a corner, both our dogs are leashed, and I see a woman with her three mini poodles coming out of a door across the street. I assumed they were leashed, so I brought my attention down to Sadie, had her do some tricks, and kept her attention while the woman could start her walk. The next thing I know, she's yelling at her dogs, which brought my attention up, just in time to see the flock of 3 mini apricot poodles running across a street (that abuts the McGrath Highway - not a safe place for off leash critters) darting at my dogs. She yelled out that they were friendly, and at the same time, I'm yelling out that mine is not. I held on to Sadie's head collar, as one of the dogs muzzle punched Sadie under her belly. Sadie did not bite, but I'm pretty sure it's only because I was holding her head.
I see this ALL. THE. TIME. When I teach classes, the friendly dogs come in pulling their owners into the classroom space, eager to see what new adventures are going to happen - all the while, there are dogs in the corner that are demonstranting very clear signals that they don't like the new dog approaching.
Think about some stranger on the train reaching over and giving you a noogie. Now think about how your dog feels when some unfamiliar dog bounds up with no social skills, and doesn't get the hint to back off.
Your dog might be the friendliest dog in the whole wide world. The other dog might not be. Don't assume, and don't risk a dog bite.
Dogs, like people, can be introverts or extroverts, and just like people, this can be dependent on context. My husband is generally soft spoken and most would describe him as an introvert - but you get him around his friends, or watching a football game, and he's quite the opposite. I tend to be very outgoing and extroverted - except in front of people I don't know and highly respect in my field - then I become quite shy. Sadie adores our Greyhound and has one Boston Terrier friend. Otherwise, she's not interested in making new friends, and who am I to say she has to? She has her people, she has her two canine companions, and that's enough for her.
We do our best to keep a potentially bad situation at bay. However, sometimes you cannot control for all the variables - the insistent owner that keeps saying "but no - he just wants to say hi!" or the clueless handler that, despite your best efforts, confidently asserts that your dog is too cute to ever hurt another dog. Or, the woman who has no recall on her three dogs that charge across a street next to a major highway, who just clearly doesn't get that her actions are illegal (Somerville has leash laws) and dangerous (to her dogs, drivers, and other dogs).
I'm positive I didn't make any friends today when I told her that her dogs really needed to be leashed, and that if my dog had bit hers, she would be responsible. When she continued to insist that she was only getting them outside to the back yard and that it's no big deal, I told her it clearly was a big deal considering they ran away from her into danger. At the very least, they should be under voice control and have a strong recall command, because it could be something else, perhaps a teenager behind the wheel, a school bus (which just passed us as this was happening), or a person who couldn't control their reactive dogs.
Just because my dog didn't bite hers today does not mean that it couldn't happen - Sadie has bit before, which is why I'm really careful and honest to passing dog handlers by saying "Not Friendly" when dogs look like they are approaching. I am Sadie's advocate, but also I'm really looking out for the safety of her dogs as well. It really doesn't matter if you're walking 20 feet, or 2 miles. If you have no off leash recall on your dog, your dog must be leashed in the city. Period.
4.24.2012
Where the Rubber Meets the Rawhide
About 5 months ago, Kyjen Toy Company sent me a toy for Zeppelin. I told them I would write up a review of this toy. Then, Christmas happened, as did 5 months of morning sickness (so we're going to have to look for good toys for small humans soon!) - and I am JUST now getting around to writing their review! Thanks, Kyjen, for being so patient!
For starters, I will openly state that Kyjen has long been one of my favorite vendors. The innovation is brilliant, the product quality is top notch, and did you know that they are behind Outward Hound products? I openly recommend their Kyjen Tail Teaser at every opportunity, especially for high drive, city dwelling dogs that need aerobic activity.
So when they offered to send me a toy for review, I was pretty excited. They sent me a large version of their new Seamsters Line , which combines Rubber with Rawhide, mental stimulation with added bonus of making the rubber toy into a puzzle toy as well.
Both dogs got to try this toy, though the Border Collie rather "helped herself" to the Seamster after the Greyhound had his fun.
First, the Greyhound:
Zeppy really doesn't get into toys. He likes Kongs, as long as they aren't too challenging. He does, however, like to chew on things. Bully sticks, rawhides, and once, my glasses. When we presented him with this toy, he got really excited, took it from me, and went to his bed to chew. I figured he'd be done in just a couple minutes, but he worked on this toy for a solid half an hour. I took the toy away from him, presented it to him the next day, and he worked on it until the rawhide was done. He loved it - it was durable enough for him, and he really had a good time!
Second, the Border Collie:
Let me first start off by saying, I strung this toy together incorrectly. The toy comes with a rawhide refill - basically a strip of rawhide that you soak for a few minutes so it becomes pliable, then you thread it through the loops to put the pieces of the toy together. I didn't have to thread anything when Zep was working on the toy since it came pre-strung. When I threaded it, I got confused and went the wrong way, which later would prove to be a bad move on my part.
Zeppy got bored with the toy when it was threaded wrong, so he left it alone after a few minutes of frustration. Sadie, our BC, decided to give it a shot. Sadie's basic coping mechanism for anything challenging is to run through it, tear through it, or throw it into the ground. She started by throwing the rubber toy into the ground (which works for her Linkables), and it didn't work. So she decided to chew through the rubber rungs that held the rawhide in place, which was rather impressive. By the time I realized that she was chewing THROUGH the outer rings of the toy instead of chewing the rawhide (she had her back to me, and chewing rawhide looks very similar to chewing tough rubber!), it was too late for part of the toy. However, I will say, that she had a rather good time, and looked really happy while she was destroying the only toy that has ever given her "brother" any joy.
It wasn't until after this had happened that my husband noticed that the threading was incorrect, which explains everything that happened above.
In Conclusion:
I really do like this toy for dogs that love rawhide, and also need mental stimulation. As stated earlier, for one of our dogs, this was the only toy that has ever given him the mental stimulation that he needs, in a fashion that he enjoyed. He's not a destructive chewer, but does love to chew on rawhides and other animal bits. However, for more destructive chewers, or dogs that have maybe chewed through other types of rubber toys as a coping mechanism, the rubber rings on the outside of the toy might not hold up over time.
I loved how innovative the toy was - taking dense rubber and threading rawhide through it to make a Super-Toy. It's definitely one that I'm going to continue to recommend to my students (puppies will get a kick out of this!), but do keep in mind that there it should be supervised to make sure the dog doesn't chew the wrong parts of the toy. I think threading the toy incorrectly (my fault, entirely!) also contributed to the destruction, but if I messed up the threading, anyone can mess up the threading, so it's something to keep in mind.
For starters, I will openly state that Kyjen has long been one of my favorite vendors. The innovation is brilliant, the product quality is top notch, and did you know that they are behind Outward Hound products? I openly recommend their Kyjen Tail Teaser at every opportunity, especially for high drive, city dwelling dogs that need aerobic activity.
So when they offered to send me a toy for review, I was pretty excited. They sent me a large version of their new Seamsters Line , which combines Rubber with Rawhide, mental stimulation with added bonus of making the rubber toy into a puzzle toy as well.
Both dogs got to try this toy, though the Border Collie rather "helped herself" to the Seamster after the Greyhound had his fun.
First, the Greyhound:
Zeppy really doesn't get into toys. He likes Kongs, as long as they aren't too challenging. He does, however, like to chew on things. Bully sticks, rawhides, and once, my glasses. When we presented him with this toy, he got really excited, took it from me, and went to his bed to chew. I figured he'd be done in just a couple minutes, but he worked on this toy for a solid half an hour. I took the toy away from him, presented it to him the next day, and he worked on it until the rawhide was done. He loved it - it was durable enough for him, and he really had a good time!
Second, the Border Collie:
Let me first start off by saying, I strung this toy together incorrectly. The toy comes with a rawhide refill - basically a strip of rawhide that you soak for a few minutes so it becomes pliable, then you thread it through the loops to put the pieces of the toy together. I didn't have to thread anything when Zep was working on the toy since it came pre-strung. When I threaded it, I got confused and went the wrong way, which later would prove to be a bad move on my part.
Zeppy got bored with the toy when it was threaded wrong, so he left it alone after a few minutes of frustration. Sadie, our BC, decided to give it a shot. Sadie's basic coping mechanism for anything challenging is to run through it, tear through it, or throw it into the ground. She started by throwing the rubber toy into the ground (which works for her Linkables), and it didn't work. So she decided to chew through the rubber rungs that held the rawhide in place, which was rather impressive. By the time I realized that she was chewing THROUGH the outer rings of the toy instead of chewing the rawhide (she had her back to me, and chewing rawhide looks very similar to chewing tough rubber!), it was too late for part of the toy. However, I will say, that she had a rather good time, and looked really happy while she was destroying the only toy that has ever given her "brother" any joy.
It wasn't until after this had happened that my husband noticed that the threading was incorrect, which explains everything that happened above.
In Conclusion:
I really do like this toy for dogs that love rawhide, and also need mental stimulation. As stated earlier, for one of our dogs, this was the only toy that has ever given him the mental stimulation that he needs, in a fashion that he enjoyed. He's not a destructive chewer, but does love to chew on rawhides and other animal bits. However, for more destructive chewers, or dogs that have maybe chewed through other types of rubber toys as a coping mechanism, the rubber rings on the outside of the toy might not hold up over time.
I loved how innovative the toy was - taking dense rubber and threading rawhide through it to make a Super-Toy. It's definitely one that I'm going to continue to recommend to my students (puppies will get a kick out of this!), but do keep in mind that there it should be supervised to make sure the dog doesn't chew the wrong parts of the toy. I think threading the toy incorrectly (my fault, entirely!) also contributed to the destruction, but if I messed up the threading, anyone can mess up the threading, so it's something to keep in mind.
2.07.2012
Free Event @ Magical Mutt: Understanding Dog Play
Yoinked from the Magical Mutt website:
It's free to the public, and there will be snacks for humans. Please leave Fido at home for this event, but bring lots of questions regarding what's normal, and what's not, when it comes to Dog Play!
Great seminar for those who attend dog parks, and aren't sure what's normal play behavior. Is your dog being bullied at the park? Is your dog the bully? Is growling normal during play? Come and find out!
For the requisite gratuitous cute, here is a link/video of what playing in a dog park looks like, from a dogs perspective.
Enjoy!
EVENT: Dog Play Video Many of you have asked about understanding dog play better. Come join us on Sunday February 12th at 7:00 pm to watch some video and discuss dog play. Send an email to magic@magicalmutt.com if you wish to attend.
It's free to the public, and there will be snacks for humans. Please leave Fido at home for this event, but bring lots of questions regarding what's normal, and what's not, when it comes to Dog Play!
Great seminar for those who attend dog parks, and aren't sure what's normal play behavior. Is your dog being bullied at the park? Is your dog the bully? Is growling normal during play? Come and find out!
For the requisite gratuitous cute, here is a link/video of what playing in a dog park looks like, from a dogs perspective.
Enjoy!
12.23.2011
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